You know it’s been a busy day when you are writing your third primeur offer… Bordeaux has been making up for lost time. Leoville Poyferre, Gruaud Larose, Cantenac Brown, Calon Segur, Smith Haut Lafitte, and now, Xavier Borie’s Grand Puy Lacoste, Haut Batailley and Lacoste Borie have released.
High flying Grand Puy Lacoste is a regular Justerini & Brooks favourite. It is a typically a contender for best value Cru Classé on the Medoc, the 2015 being no exception. Situated on deep gravel croups close to fellow Fifth Growths, Lynch Bages and Pontet Canet, the wines are classically styled with notes of violets, graphite and cassis. The 2015 maintains the archetypal character we associate with this estate, but is a little more buxom than normal. It boasts dazzling aromatics and stunning delineation. This is a spectacular effort that will rival the great GPLs from 1996, 2000, 2005, 2009 and 2010 - unsurprisingly “Buy” was a word that featured regularly in our notes.
GPL’s sister estate, Haut Batailley also put in a mighty strong performance in 2015. Again, it is true to the house style, with more concentration, more voluptuous fruit, and the impression of greater generosity. We were smitten, and at £300 per dozen, one will be hard pushed to find a more attractive Pauillac for the money. The second wine of Grand Puy Lacoste, Lacoste Borie is another of our ‘top value’ selections. This is always pleasing and very reasonably priced. The 2015 will be lots of fun for the dinner table in 5-10 years’ time.
‘The 2015 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, matured in 75% new oak and was picked between September 18 until October 4 (although the "real" picking commenced from September 21). Now, Grand-Puy-Lacoste is often quite "aloof" at this early juncture, but that is not the case with the 2015. This is more approachable aromatically, beautifully defined, thanks to that expressive Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin and finely tuned acidity (pH 3.68). Beguilingly harmonious in the mouth, it boasts a silky smooth texture with wonderful salinity on the aftertaste that is sustained in the mouth. As usual, Xavier Borie has produced a "classic" Pauillac, but one that is a little more appeasing to those that don't want to cellar for 20-30 years. You could describe the 2015 as being between 2009 and 2010...and that, folks, is not a bad place to be. Drink 2028-2060. 94-96/100’. – Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate