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Bordeaux 2016: Chateau Cheval Blanc and Petit Cheval
02 June 2017

Cheval Blanc is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. It has a haunting power, immense presence and effortless charm. Pierre Lurton has steered this great estate back to the very top of the Bordeaux hierarchy. The 2016 is certainly on a par with the outstanding 2015, perhaps it will be better, only time will tell. We were enthralled by the purity and precision of the 2016. It is quite captivating, it conceals its depth and power, slowly revealing its potential; this is as ravishing and elegant as it gets. The other big news is that Petit Cheval is back. After a year off, Cheval’s second wine is back with a bang. It’s a minute cuvee (just 7% of the total production), but the quality is exceptional. Made in very much the same vein as the Grand Vin – it really is very grown up and refined for a second wine. ‘The 2016 Cheval Blanc is a blend of 59% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc and (the return of) 3% Cabernet Sauvignon from the gravel soils since in this vintage the vines showed absolutely no stress. It delivers 14.25% alcohol with an IPT of 75 and a pH 3.67, which Pierre Lurton told me is a little lower than normal. As usual, it is matured in 100% new oak. It has a very pure, correct and quite penetrating bouquet with black cherries, blackcurrant, graphite and a touch of wild mint. It is bashful at first but opens with confidence with aeration (incidentally, I allowed my sample 40 minutes to open). The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin and a killer line of acidity that imparts so much freshness from the starting gun. That soupçon on Cabernet Sauvignon does make a difference, lending a subtle vein of graphite that runs throughout the wine. It remains linear, with laser-like focus towards the extraordinarily persistent finish, pencil lead on the "HB" aftertaste. This is a classic and intellectual Cheval Blanc, not as charming perhaps as the 2015 Cheval Blanc, but it will unquestionably age gracefully over decades not years. Drink Date 2024 – 2060. 97-99/100’ - Neal Martin, robertparker.com    Read More

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