Bordeaux 2017 - Calon Segur, Rauzan Segla, Canon and Brane Cantenac

Bordeaux 2017 - Calon Segur, Rauzan Segla, Canon and Brane Cantenac
We’ve been eagerly anticipating a deluge of releases post Vinexpo. Now we have lift-off. Laurent Duffau’s wonderful Calon Segur was first out of the blocks. To say that Calon Segur is desirable is a gross understatement – this is one of the hottest tickets in Bordeaux. Huge investments in the vineyard and in a new state of the art winery have elevated this wine to the very top echelons of the Bordeaux hierarchy. The 2017 is superb. We were struck by the dazzling purity of the Cabernet; this is sleek and refined with real intensity and poise. It is a wonderful modern expression of the Calon vineyard and will be an instant sell-out!

Our hearts then almost stopped at the price of La Clotte (£285/6) - we couldn’t resist… The wine is superb, the price might be a little high – but then it is a sister property to Ausone. If you would like an allocation of this Vauthier estate, please enquire – production is miniscule.

We were revived by the prospect of Henri Lurton’s Brane Cantenac. This Second Growth Margaux is on fine form. It is always one of the stars of the appellation, and the 2017 is no exception – it’s beautifully fragrant with a wonderful core of plush fruit. At £575 per dozen it should be one of the best value ‘Second Growths’ of the campaign.

And like the proverbial London bus, we received offers for our other favourite Margaux Second Growth, Rauzan Segla. In fact, the Wertheimer family released its whole Bordeaux portfolio: Rauzan Segla, Canon and their latest acquisition, Berliquet. Rauzan is as handsome as ever and given the demand for this Chateau since Nicolas Audebert took the reins, it should be snapped up. The same is very much true of the wonderful Canon 2017. It was a tough act to follow the spellbinding 2015 and 2016, but Nicolas has come up trumps again with a beautifully detailed and exquisitely judged 2017. The barrel tastings were one of the highlights of our trip – the fruit here is lavish yet taut and refined – a real joy to taste. The new project, Chateau Berliquet occupies a site between Canon and Belair Monange. This is very much a work in progress, but we were impressed by the first vintage. It is definitely a chateau to keep a close eye on…

Also released today: Giscours (£255/6), Marquis de Calon Segur (£110/6), Baron de Brane (£110/6), Feytit Clinet (£250/6)