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Bordeaux 2019: Château Lynch-Bages
10 June 2020

We’re not sure whether Jean-Charles is referring to the 1963 song by Bobby Vinton or the film written and directed by the aptly named David Lynch (no relation). In either case, it’s a rather evocative description of this splendid Lynch Bages. We’ve marvelled at recent vintages, especially the introverted, cerebral, darkly mineral 2018. 2019 is every bit as good. In fact, we prefer the style: less earnest, more exuberant and ultimately more indulgent. Sure, it’s still a big, serious wine with a deeply wound core of classic black, gravelly fruit. However, there’s a voluptuousness to the fruit – that velvety texture to which Jean-Charles alludes – as well as these striking tannins, which delight the palate and leave the mouth refreshed and yearning for more. We were utterly absorbed. It’s a wine you’ll just want to keep revisiting. Hidden under that voluptuous veneer is so much fine detail, and those epic tannins just keep revealing a kaleidoscopic array of subtle, nuanced flavours. At £395/6, this is an utterly compelling Pauillac; tuck a few cases away in the cellar and reap the rewards in a decade.

Also released by the Cazes family, we have the best Haut Batailley we can recall tasting en primeur (£210/6), Echo de Lynch (£137.50/6) and the perennial overachiever from St Estephe, Les Ormes de Pez (£105/6).

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