Pessac Léognan is one of the stand-out communes in 2020. Notable successes from Smith Haut Lafitte, Haut Bailly, Pape Clément and Domaine de Chevalier have caught the eye of critics and the J&B team. The intensity, precision and tension in these wines is extremely impressive. For those with deep enough pockets, we would suggest buying them all, but if we had to choose just one for our cellar, it would be Olivier Bernard’s fantastic Domaine de Chevalier. We felt this was on a par with the top ‘Super Seconds’, yet at £283/6 it is likely to be considerably more economical. There’s such a cool freshness to the silky fruit, all wrapped in gloriously refined tannins that resonate, coating the palate with lots of fine detail. So much vim and vigour is harnessed within its immensely stylish and composed frame. Chapeau to Olivier and his team on another magical rendition.
We also have limited quantities of the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (£398.50/6). This is frequently mentioned amongst the “best white wines of Bordeaux”.
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“The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier, which was cropped at 38hl/ha, is deep purple with glints of blue. The bouquet is very clean, precise and focused, not dissimilar to the impressive Malartic Lagravière that I tasted alongside, touches of wet granite and truffle emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This Domaine de Chevalier has a deeply impressive structure counterbalanced by equally impressive freshness and elegance, fanning out wonderfully on the finish, which is very persistent. Just a shade off the outstanding 2019... perhaps. 2026 – 2058. 93-95/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com
“Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2020 Domaine de Chevalier comes skipping out of the glass with energetic scents of ripe red and black currants, fresh blackberries and boysenberries, plus nuances of wild sage, cloves and cedar with a waft of lavender. The medium to full-bodied palate surprises and delights with an unexpected richness and depth that remains locked away on the nose, revealing layers of fragrant earth and floral notions framed by fantastic freshness and firm, finely grained tannins, finishing with the most gorgeous, long-lingering perfume. Drink 2026-2053. 95-97+/100” – Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate
“Iron, black mushroom and dark berry with some burnt orange peel. Flowers, too. It’s full-bodied with round tannins that turn linear and tight at the end. Excellent energy. Brightness and purity. 96-97/100” – James Suckling, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier is going to need a number of years to unwind. Rich, heady and super-concentrated, the 2020 is so impressive, right out of the gate. Crushed rocks, rose petal, cedar, pomegranate and mint all build as the 2020 shows off its vibrant, layered personality. Domaine de Chevalier remains one of the most under the radar wines in all of Bordeaux. The 2020 is an absolutely brilliant effort from Olivier Bernard and his team. Tasted two times. 95-97/100” - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
“Concentrated ruby red colour, a little subdued on the nose, built with structure and power, concentrated and should age well. Classical, powerful, not exuberant, an impressive Chevalier that has tannins and fruit and freshness, nothing shouting too loud. As it opens, you see a peony floral edge that is very attractive. Easily among the best in Pessac. A yield of 38hl/ha. Drinking Window 2027 – 2042. 95/100” – Jane Anson, Decanter.com
The wines listed are abroad and are expected to ship late 2023.