Château Margaux is evidently one of the stars of the vintage. What’s not to love about this wine? It has it all, glorious fragrant aromas, layers of sumptuous, crystal-clear fruit and a long, mouth-watering finish. This is a hugely impressive wine. Aurélien explained that the IPT is on a par with the 2019, so despite the appearance of silky, almost imperceptible tannins, this is a serious, long-term creation. Alas, volumes are down 20%, so expect some competition.
“The 2021 Château Margaux is clearly one of the finest wines of the vintage. Offering up a deep bouquet of raspberries, wild blueberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, violets, licorice and hints of cigar box, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with terrific depth at the core and beautifully refined, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, floral finish. Combining the vibrant flavors and moderate alcohol (13.1%) of a vintage of the last century with all the precision of the present in extraction and élevage, it is a timeless classic; and lest that be mistaken for a euphemism for a lack of concentration, note that the wine is analytically as high in polyphenols as the brilliant 2019. Representing only 36% of the estate's production, the 2021 is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 95-97+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
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The Durantou sisters have continued in Denis’ footsteps, creating masterful Pomerols from L’Eglise Clinet. They decided to harvest early, before the rains that never materialised. As Neal Martin suggest this is a “streamlined” Eglise Clinet, very elegant and sleek, a wine that grows in stature. We were charmed by its super-refined, classy style.
“The 2021 L'Eglise-Clinet was picked September 27–29, a rapid harvest within three days; winemaker Noëmie Durantou told me she wanted to beat the forecasted rain that would have diluted the fruit. Raised in 75% new oak, this has a less concentrated, mineral-driven bouquet that bides its time, offering nuanced pine cone scents with aeration. The palate is clearly built around elegance, with its finely chiseled tannins and wonderful crushed stone notes. Perhaps a more streamlined l'Eglise-Clinet, showing wonderful precision. This Pomerol never tries to outdo its limitations or ape previous vintages, lending it an intangible sense of honesty. Beautiful. (14.0% alcohol) 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com
Our final wine is the truly excellent Haut Bailly. The introduction of their superb new winery appears to have made an instant impact. Veronique’s 2021 is magnificent, brimming with high quality fruit and framed by beautifully judged tannins. This was a real highlight of our week and suggests a bright new phase in this chateau’s history.
“A classic in the making, the 2021 Haut-Bailly wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries and wild plums mingled with sweet spices, loamy soil, raw cocoa and violets. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and concentrated, with bright acids, ultra-refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish, it's a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, only 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. With yields of a mere 19 hectoliters per hectare, it's impressively intensely flavored despite its quintessentially elegant, classically proportioned profile. In many respects, it may represent the Cabernet-driven modern-day alter ego of the superb Merlot-dominant 1998 Haut-Bailly. 94-95+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate