Two retrospective bottle tastings of 2018 red and white Burgundy over the last year revealed some excellent wines, proving that big crops can produce beautiful results. Whilst the best wines will keep, particularly the reds, they have found a charm and equilibrium earlier in their life than we were expecting. There are many great bottles already giving immense pleasure, we have selected a clutch of our favourites below.
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Read More2018 – the lowdown
The first thing to remember about 2018 in Burgundy is that, whilst it was the warmest year on record when measured across the whole year, it was not extreme during the Summer in the way that the heatwave 2003 vintage was. The second key was the size of the crop, one of the biggest on record; a key mitigating factor to the summer warmth and drought - a more heavily laden vine ripens more slowly. Finally, the winter of 2017/2018 was very wet and served to ensure that deep-lying water reserves were adequately filled at the start of the growing season.
The first major surprise of the vintage is the whites, which are incredibly consistent and have a fresher fruit profile than expected. A combination of growers learning from experiences of previous hot vintages, added to a very big crop, helped keep a freshness and juice in the grapes; the resulting wines display pure, clear, generous fruit profiles. This is not as tense a vintage as the exemplary 2017s but there is nevertheless a great clarity of flavour and verve in these 2018s. They are full-bodied but fresh and balanced; there is a ray of sunshine to them, characterised by yellow and white fruit notes that mix with citrus fruit and minerality. A fresher, lighter, more shapely version of 2015 is, perhaps, the most accurate description.
For the reds, alcohols are generally a little higher than in 2017 or 2016, structures are bigger and fruit profiles riper; yet, since our initial tastings from barrel where some wines were overly exuberant, the 2018s seem to have settled in bottle and found a certain composure. The wines are full-bodied, but their muscular frameworks have softened and melded with their flamboyant, spice-infused red berry and plum fruit profiles. Whilst there no rush, they are a joy to drink now.
Giles Burke–Gaffney
Buying Director, Justerini & Brooks
The Wines on Offer
Mercurey, En Sazenay, 1er Cru, Genot Boulanger, 2018
In gentle hands, such as those of Genot-Boulanger, the southerly appellation of Mercurey can offer stylish and radiantly delicate red Burgundies. A 1.81ha parcel situated at the top of a steep east-facing slope this makes for agile Burgundy of pure, uncomplicated joy.
Pommard, Vieilles Vignes, Genot-Boulanger, 2018
Being a genuine old vines cuvee, half of which were planted in the 1950s, this offers incredible class and depth for a village level wine. A blend of three single vineyards, this is a cuvee strongly influenced by limestone soils -evidence by is refined, streamlined and slightly chalky fruit profile. An elegant, Volnay-esque Pommard.
Maranges, La Fussière, 1er Cru, Rouge, Bachelet Monnot, 2018
An overlooked appellation at the most southerly end of the Cote d'Or, Maranges' fortunes and reputation has been transformed by the talented young Bachelet brothers. Their Fussiere 1er Cru encapsulates the heart and soul of classic Maranges, offering a moreish and juicy interplay of red fruit, undergrowth and herb.
Marsannay, Blanc, Cuvee Source des Roches, Bruno Clair, 2018
A rare breed that even the most die hard of Burgundy fans won’t necessarily have heard of, Marsannay Blanc can produce white burgundy of great personality and vibrancy, with a gently ripe, stone-fruit leaning profile. A selection of parcels from the higher slopes of Marsannay where the soils arepoor and extremely stony.
Bourgogne, Terroir d'Exception, Chateau de Meursault, 2018
About as stylish and complex as wines from the generic Bourgogne appellation gets. This hails from a unique plot of 40-year-old vines between Albert Grivault’s Clos des Perrières and Perrièresitself. A premier cru site if ever you saw one but for the fact that it was a quarry up until 1977, which has meant that it was never classed as such. One of Burgundy’s best-kept secrets.
Meursault, Les Charmes Dessus, 1er Cru, Chateau de Meursault, 2018
A flagship cuvee of the revitalised Chateau de Meursault, their Charmes Dessus comes from a plot at the top of the vineyard just below Clos des Perrières. An exquisite example that offers all of the joy and sunshine that defines the very best Charmes. Bursting with bright, fresh, yellow-toned fruits with classic Meursault melt in the mouth texture.