Clos des Goisses 2007

Clos des Goisses 2007
“ I recently held a complete vertical tasting of this personal wine. The champagnes were amongst the most ravishing I have tasted.” Richard Juhlin, www.champagneclub.com

One of Champagne’s original single vineyard sites, if not actually the first (that honour goes to Clos du Mesnil, originally a grower parcel before its acquisition by the house of Krug), was Clos des Goisses, the jewel in the impressive Philipponnat stable. It is instantly recognisable for its extremely steep slope that leads the vines down to the canal in Mareuil-sur-Ay - indeed it is the steepest walled vineyard in Champagne. The first known vintage of this great site was 1935, and in the intervening years this special plot has become known for producing powerful and long lived champagnes that possess a unique combination of ripeness and structure.

The first question of any single vineyard is whether the production is consistently good enough, or better, than what might be achieved through blending. Not all vineyards have the magic touch. As Tom Stevenson reported in World of Fine Wine issue 49 - “In my experience of watching how individual vineyards perform over 35 vintages, the two that stand out in this respect are Clos des Goisses and Clos du Mesnil, but for completely different reasons. It is the unique topography of Clos des Goisses (which always allows some parcels to excel) – in conjunction with its high active lime content…and significantly warmer microclimate (2.7 ° F higher mean temperature during the growing season) – that endows this vineyard with the intrinsic ability to produce something special”

Goisses 2007 is an exceptional ‘07, quite possibly the best we’ve tasted. The wine represents a gorgeous interplay between poised and expressive fruit and polished minerality. Aromatically, there’s a wealth of red berry and golden fruit on the nose, which expands to include notes of sweet orange blossom and jasmine with time in the glass. Structurally this is all elegance and charm ahead of out and out Goisses power; open and silky fruit and mineral components mingle with a very fine, almost creamy bead, culminating in a surprisingly long, focussed, chalk inflected finish. All in all this is one of the most charming and alluring young Goisses we can remember, a blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, with 4.25g/l dosage, disgorged in June 2016 after 8 years sur lie. Winemaking was done primarily in wooden barrels, with no malo-lactic fermentations carried out.

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