Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot – The next instalment

Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot – The next instalment
Two months ago, we were thrilled to offer an exceptional parcel of Coquard-Loison-Fleurot (CLF) 2015s. Now it is the turn of their sublime 2016s, the vintage that will probably establish this domaine as one of the leading lights in the Cote de Nuits. It seems fitting to hand over to the man who has done most to champion their wines and bring them to the attention of collectors, Neal Martin.

“What is remarkable about this domaine is their holdings. Rather than the usual pyramid of holdings that might be crowned by a barrel or two of grand cru, C.L.F has no less than six grand crus to their name. Moreover, these are parcels of good vine age and considerable size… even their village crus are located in some of the more reputed vineyards at that level. Winemaking is classic and hands-off, and the 2016s are completely destemmed except for the Grands Echézeaux due to limited quantity. I found the oak here prudently used, whereas perhaps in previous vintages it came across a little heavier, allowing the terroirs to really shine in a vintage that permitted that. Stylistically, I was thinking of Mugneret-Gibourg or his nearby neighbor Emmanuel Rouget, wines brimming full of crystalline red fruit and tension with satin textures and spine-tingling tension. Thomas himself, a good friend of Sebastien Cathiard, seemed to be a chilled out and relaxed fellow who, perhaps out of the limelight, has been allowed to refine his craft. It is rare that you ever stumble across a domaine that owns their own vines, boasts enviable holdings of grand crus and, yet, seems to have flown under the radar with the exception of one or two eagle-eyed importers. If the wines are as brilliant as these 2016s, that will not be the case for much longer.”

2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
“The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru comes from 1.16 hectares of vines spread over two lieux-dits and matured in 60% new oak. The oldest vines here were planted in the 1920s and 1930s. This had a touch of reduction on the nose, but even so, it did not quite have the same intensity as the Echézeaux, at least at the moment. The palate is actually where it’s at: very fine tannin, the new oak a little more vocal here compared to the other grand crus, but there is substantial depth and intoxicating purity toward the slightly candied finish. Give this 5 or 6 years at least. 93-95/100“ - Neal Martin, robertparker.com

2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru
“The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru comes from 1.33 hectares of vines including Les Treux, which Thomas normally bottles as a separate cuvée. Matured in 50% new oak, it offers vibrant brambly red and black fruit on the nose, beautifully delineated with the oak seamlessly embroidered into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a little spicier than its peers but extremely well focused and conveying outstanding texture on the finish. This is simply one of the best Echézeauxs that I have tasted in this vintage. 94-96/100“ - Neal Martin, robertparker.com

2016 Morey St Denis
“The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from three parcels that total around 0.70-hectare. It has a very seductive bouquet with raspberry preserve and subtle blueberry notes, detailed and feminine, practically premier cru in complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine crunchy tannins that frame the bright and vivid red fruit. It is the very precise finish that confirms this as premier cru in all but name. What an outstanding village cru. This comes highly recommended. 90-92/100” - Neal Martin, robertparker.com

2016 Vosne Romanee
“The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Village comes from three vineyards covering 1.5 hectares and sees one-third new oak. It has a fragrant bouquet with ebullient strawberry and raspberry fruit entwined with cold stone aromas and discrete sous-bois aromas. The palate has a little more substance than its fellow village crus even if it does not quite deliver the same finesse as the Morey-Saint-Denis or the Gevrey-Chambertin. Still, I appreciate the deft spicy note that sustains the finish. 90-92/100” - Neal Martin, robertparker.com

Preference will go to those who place balanced orders, i.e. 1:1 Village:Grand Cru