The Tuscan coast’s biggest secret is out. Duemani makes intense wines that mix cut-diamond precision and Tuscan generosity. They are among the region’s greatest producers yet command only half the price of the more famous Super Tuscans of Bolgheri. It is over fifteen years now since Luca d’Attoma, famous winemaking consultant to a long line of Tuscany’s most lauded wineries, established his own bio-dynamically grown vineyards in the lofty hills of Riparbella, inland and just north of Bolgheri. It is fair to say this estate is now well and truly at the top of its game. For us their 2016s better their previous greats, 2013 and 2010. But don’t just take our word for it, in his report last week Antonio Galloni heaps praise on the wines –
Suisassi Duemani, 2016
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The 2016 Suisassi brings together power and freshness to a degree that is quite rare on the coast. Inky dark purplish fruit, leather, licorice, plum, lavender and spice come together in a deep Syrah endowed with tremendous concentration as well as power. Time in the glass brings out the wine's explosive energy and tension. The 30% whole clusters are evident, but not overly so. 96 points. www.vinous.com
Duemani, Duemani, 2016
The 2016 Duemani is a powerful and explosive wine. Dark red cherry, tobacco, cedar, plum, dried flowers, leather and licorice all race out of the glass as this rich, dense Cabernet Franc shows off its personality. Aged 20 months in French oak, the 2016 is a wine of great power and density. I would prefer to drink it on the young side, to take advantage of the wine's superb depth and intensity. This is an outstanding vintage for the Duemani. 95 points www.vinous.com
Cifra, Duemani, 2016
If you are looking for this quality of wine-making in your everyday drinking, then Duemani also make a generic, good value Cabernet Franc called Cifra. Made from a blend of their youngest wines and declassified Grand Vin, this is fruit-driven and therefore aged in cement vats only, no oak, offering a full spectrum of alluring fruit - forest berry, plum, raspberry and bramble. Full in the mouth but sharply-focused and refreshing with it. Smooth and with good mid palate, culminating in a clean vibrant finish.