Francois Cotat 2012s
François Cotat is a non-interventionist in the extreme. His hands-off approach allows fermentations to happen spontaneously and continue for as long (or as short) as it takes for the wine to find its own sense of equilibrium. The approach, coupled with often very ripe picking, gives rise to some of the most startling Sauvignon Blanc found anywhere. He frequently bottles wines with noticeable residual sugar (though two of his cuvées in 2012 are almost totally dry) and has a legion of fans who adore his rich, opulent and luxurious Sancerres.
These are wines that shun the greengage and gooseberry aromas so often found in straight varietal Sauvignon Blancs. They are wines of the orchard and of soil that will often veer towards the exotic ; particularly after extended cellaring. Bottled unfined and unfiltered when a lack of moon means “the sky is at its darkest”, his wines undoubtedly take time to blossom, but those with the patience to cellar them look forward to wonderfully individual Sauvignon Blancs of texture, power and nuance.
Just to keep everyone on their toes, François bucked his own harvesting trend in 2012, bringing the grapes in almost a week earlier than usual. “The grapes were ripe” he told us, “why would I wait?” The resulting wines range from totally dry and laden with extract, to exotic, bold and highly ripe, yet all of them are marked by the vintage’s trademark ripe and fresh acidity.
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