Many decades after Angelo Gaja first garnered international recognition for his superlative Barbarescos, the wines of his eponymous family estate remain at the qualitative pinnacle of this region’s production. Whilst the family’s interest has now branched beyond even the wider Piedmont region to include several smart Tuscan bottlings, it is Barbaresco – where Angelo’s Great-Grandfather started out in 1859 with only two hectares – which remains their vinous ‘home turf’.
Angelo was famously innovative and progressive and his daughter, Gaia Gaja, who is now at the day-to-day helm, has continued to develop their winemaking style. We feel that their stunning wines have found a beautiful purity and elegance in recent vintages to match their natural power. This was no more evident than in the newly-released 2017 Barbaresco which was a joy to taste last week.
Read More2017 was another warm year in Piedmont, which Gaia compared a little to 2015, but with the structure of 2016. Cooler nights during the ripening period aided the retention of acidity. Overall, volumes were down, but the wines have concentration and freshness.
Whilst trophy hunters will continue to chase the blockbuster single crus (which will be released at a later date), this blend of 14 vineyards all sited between 250-330m above sea level is a beautiful – and significantly more affordable – showcase for the Gaja style. It presents a deliciously forward nose, with the classic notes of rose and tar, but also heady touches of cherry, sloe and liquorice. The palate is bold but very well balanced, unfurling with layers of fleshy fruit and spices. It has substantial structure but it’s ever so supple, the fruit and freshness very much to the fore as one savours the long finish.
Antonio Galloni has scored this 92-94 points, which is almost the same as he scored the single crus, which makes this a recommendable purchase to our minds.
The 2017 Barbaresco is a gorgeous example of the year. Sweet, perfumed and light on its feet, the 2017 offers an intriguing mélange of cedar, pipe tobacco, dried cherry, mint and incense nuances, with terrific freshness and the slightly nervous edge that runs through all of these wines. 92-94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com
The wines are currently abroad and will be shipped in the Autumn of 2020.