“What can I say? More magic in a bottle.” – Neal Martin, Vinous.
We continue our series of new South African releases with Stellenbosch’s Lukas Van Loggerenberg. The 2021 vintage suits Lukas’ style down to the ground as he describes it as “the coolest year we’ve seen since 1997 and the most European in style I’ve ever made.” A crisp, tense vintage not lacking for depth here in Stellenbosch, we loved them on first tasting back in February, and have tasted the full range twice since with consistent admiration.
Read More2021 was the second vintage vinified in the new cellar in Paarl, providing Lukas with the space, tanks and barrels to make wines of uncompromising quality. Inspired by the great wines of Europe, each year the range reaches another level of perfume, finesse of tannin and complexity of fruit. There is much to enjoy in drinking these wines in youth, yet they have a fine boned acid and tannic structure that marks them apart from many Stellenbosch producers. New to the range this year is the “High Hopes” – a stunning blend of 86% Schist Syrah, 10% Grenache and 4% Cinsault from iron-rich granite. Lavishly textured with baritone spices, sage, bittersweet berries and brambly notes on the finish, it is a cracking debut. There is also the Cinsault Lotter, from the second oldest red wine vineyard in the country, planted in 1932. Lukas has taken this site over from the Mullineuxs and vinified it in his own light-touch fashion. Fully destemmed and fermented and aged in cement, at just 12.5% it exudes super-pure raspberries, black tea, and supple redcurrant notes on the finish. Both are worthy of your attention.
These are uncompromising wines insofar that they are what they are, not kowtowing to a prospective mass audience. Instead, they are designed for purists, those who seek cerebral wines that are generally lighter and more transparent in style, yet never short-change in terms of aromas or flavour. – Neal Martin, Vinous.
A Cape First-Growth – Tim Atkin MW.