The third and final offer in our “drinking” Burgundy series comes from one of the Côte de Nuits’ brightest new prospects, based in Marsannay - an appellation very much on the up.
Château de Marsannay’s course took a dramatic turn for the better when it was purchased in 2012 by Olivier Halley. A new manager was brought in, Stephane Follin-Arbelet, and given free rein to do whatever was necessary to place the Chateau’s wines on a par with those of the Côte’s top producers. Stephane’s biggest coup was to bring in the young, award-winning winemaker, Sylvain Pabion. Sylvain has overseen a revolution in both vineyard and winery, moving towards sustainable, quality-orientated, organic viticulture and winemaking that is classic and adaptive. The grapes are mostly de-stalked before fermentation, though with a larger or smaller proportion of whole bunches retained depending on the cuvée and vintage; the must then undergoes a cold-soak prior to fermentation. After a long, gentle infusion with the skins post fermentation, the wine is racked off and aged in a mixture of new and used oak barriques for over a year.
Read MoreMarsannay, at the far north end of the Côte d’Or, has come to prominence over the last few years. A plethora of talented wine-producers, such as Château de Marsannay, have sprouted up here and started to shine a light on the great terroirs of its clay-limestone slopes. The appellation eagerly awaits the result of its submission to promote its finest plots to Premier Cru status…..
One of the region’s great vineyards is the Clos de Jeu, a superb parcel sitting just above the Château, planted on poor, sandy, limestone soils. The resulting wines are sensual, seductive and aromatic, of which 2017 is the most beautiful example to drink now. Fermented with 50% whole bunches, but you would not know it such is its impeccable, silky texture, this is a fine 2017 Marsannay indeed. Resplendent with creamy, rose-tinged, damson and plum fruit finely interwoven with beautiful, cashmere tannins. A bewtichingly floral and elegant Burgundy of real panache.