Meursault Magic
19 January 2021

As much as Meursault is the embodiment of White Burgundy for many, being typically full-bodied with flavours of buttery fruit and roasted hazelnuts, this large appellation hosts a plethora of terroirs that produce a myriad of interesting styles. The village is a hub of wine-making talent and, whilst the most celebrated wines come from the likes of Perrières, Charmes and Genevrières, is also home to some of the most spell-binding village level wines in the Côte.

The water table is particularly low here, (a visit to one of the many particularly deep cellars will attest to this,) and the soils are, broadly, very rich in clay – from where Meursault gets its archetypal full body. On the slopes this means vineyards are both well-drained and water-retentive, a fact that has stood them in good stead during this era of global warming.

The best village wines come from “lieus dits” - single, named vineyards that don’t have Premier Cru status. If your taste is for something more mineral and less buttery, head to the likes of the high, poor limestone soils of Meix Chavaux with its cooling east-north east aspect; equally on the racy side of the spectrum but more exposed to the sun, with wines showing varying degrees of power and ripeness, are the brilliant upper slopes of Tillets, Tesson and Narvaux. For something fuller and more hedonistic, head to the lower-lying Clos du Cromin or Limozin; whilst the wines from the upper-mid slope of Clos des Grands Charrons provide a beautifully-judged mix of nerve, mineral complexity and power.

For something to enjoy straightaway, look no further than these great 2017s.