Founded in 1612, Domaine Weinbach is an Alsatian institution. After the death of Theo Faller in 1979 the estate was run for years by Colette, Theo’s widow, and her two daughters Catherine and Laurence. Over the decades they garnered a loyal following, known for producing the region’s most elegant, flowing wines, as well as perhaps it’s warmest welcome.
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Read MoreToday Catherine is at the helm, joined by her two sons Theo and Eddy. Given the history behind the estate it is not surprising that the general pace of change is slow. And yet, the two brothers seem to be instigating little tweaks here and there that are having a profound effect on the wines.
Weinbach remains a staunchly traditional domaine, whose exceptional holdings in and around Kaysersberg are fermented with wild yeasts and aged in huge old wooden fuders. However, they are also forward thinking when it comes to Organic and Biodynamic farming practices, ways to counter the increasing threat of drought, and their approach to closures and reduced sulphur usage during the vinification. If the brothers have made one major change, they are letting the wines run a little drier, intervening to stop the fermentation less often, allowing the wines to settle at a naturally balanced state with slightly lower levels of residual sugar – a move which has been welcomed by all.
The 2021s that we offer today represent a return to a sense of cooler classicism we’ve not really seen since 2014. Yet, thanks to several of the tweaks mentioned above, the wines are by no means short on substance or ageability. Though acidities are relatively high, these are covered, on the whole, by the most sensationally lacy textures, ripe, glowing fruits, and all the spice and mineral intensity one expects from this traditionally gastronomic set of wines. Overall moderate temperatures, higher rainfall and the accompanying threat of mildew and botrytis required diligence in the vineyard and a reduction in the total yield. Harvest began almost a full month later than in 2020, with Eddy explaining that “what was left on the vine ripened really well and the wines make a fresh but intense and complex impression on the palate.”
As always, the Domaine’s huge range comprises some of the finest and most delightful wines Alsace has to offer, with barely ever a misfire – highly impressive given the cornucopia of styles and quality levels it houses.