A rib of beef, a bowl of salad and a bottle of Chevillon Vaucrains ‘08 made for an excellent recent lunch.

A rib of beef, a bowl of salad and a bottle of Chevillon Vaucrains ‘08 made for an excellent recent lunch.
There was a time not so long ago when one could pick up just about any Chevillon you wanted on release. Those in the know filled their boots. Nowadays, word is out and the likes of Cailles, Vaucrains and Les St Georges are almost always allocated. When the chance came to buy back into some 2008, direct from the Domaine’s cellars, we obviously jumped at the chance.

Much has been made of the 2008 vintage in Burgundy; written off by some, serenaded by many as Vrai Bourgogne. The good, quite frankly, are glorious and it is no surprise top vignerons up and down the Cote regularly cite it as one of their favourite of recent vintages. The combination of tension, acidity, transparency and ripeness is the holy grail for Pinot production - the best of the '08s have all of these qualities and are just beginning to show them off.

Vaucrains itself is a wonderful plot. Neighbouring Les St Georges, though just higher up the slope; the soils are rocky and the incline notable. The resulting wines are powerful, long-lived and concentrated, with a prominent sense of mineralite that sets them apart from their neighbour Les St Georges. At Chevillon, the power of Vaucrains is such that it is very often served after Les St Georges and, were the latter ever to be promoted to Grand Cru status, there would certainly be a case for “What about Vaucrains?”

Nuits St.-Georges, Les Vaucrains, 1er Cru, Robert Chevillon, 2008

“Cork pulled 45 minutes before pouring. Immediately into its stride, confident and poised. The acidity of '08, the rocky minerality of Vaucrains, the sweet and glorious fruit profile of Chevillon, there is so much to like here. This is so very Pinot, so very NSG, with really satisfying breadth and depth yet also line and precision. Fresh, generous Pinot aromas that are just beginning to offer a glimpse of maturity. There is energy and jostle to this, but also wonderful control and precision - just a delight to drink. Great class. Drink now, to 2022.” Justerini & Brooks

“Ripe, elegant and dense aromas of blue and black Pinot fruit, plus floral nuances and one can smell the concentration of the rich, thick, mouth coating and impressively scaled flavors that stain the palate with chewy Pinot extract and culminates in a textured, structured and superbly long finish that should be capable of extended aging. Magnificent.” 92-94 Allen Meadows, Burghound

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