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One of Chablis' Great 1ers Crus
22 May 2020

The great Chablis loophole. A first-rate 1er Cru vineyard produced and bottled by a great Domaine costs nearly half the price in Chablis as it does further south. This much-celebrated Butteaux vineyard, in the hands of the region’s most exciting talent in Pattes Loup’s Thomas Pico, sets you back just over £40 per bottle in bond, in Côte d’Or currency that is nigh on the price of a Puligny villages.

Thomas Pico exudes calm and modesty but beneath the serene surface burns a fire, a passion for making great wine that puts nature first. There needs to be, as he has not chosen the easy path. In 2004, after taking back 8ha of his family vineyard, Domaine Bois d’Yver, Thomas set about creating his own estate and converting to organic farming. Certification followed in 2009 and he has since moved to Biodynamic practices. Chablis’ is an unforgiving climate for the eco-friendly vigneron. Organic viticulture can be brutal particularly in the harsh winters, but nonetheless he heroically ploughs on (literally) in a region where herbicide usage is sadly prevalent.

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