Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2008

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2008
"2008 Goisses is shaping up to be a magical Champagne” - Antonio Galloni

Clos des Goisses is perhaps Champagne’s most exceptional hillside vineyard, renowned for producing some of the region’s finest and longest lived wines. Legendary old bottles regularly feature on critics’ and connoisseurs’ lists of most memorable wines, and yet because of its tiny production, it remains something of a hidden gem to all but the connoisseur. Today’s release may well change that.

It is no secret that the long-awaited 2008 Champagne vintage has produced some exceedingly fine, taut wines. The combination of the 2008 growing season and the magical Clos des Goisses vineyard has produced an utterly spectacular result.

Tasting the 2008 we found ourselves trying to remember a more impressive young Champagne release from any grower. The power is there, particularly evident on the exceptionally long finish. But what impressed most was the incredible clarity of aromas, the contrasting structural qualities of delicacy and strength, and the kaleidoscopic transparency of flavours that are somehow etched into the core of the wine. If anyone was wondering about the critics’ hype surrounding the vintage, Clos des Goisses 2008 would be a fine way to prove that point.

The keys to the success of enclosed vineyard of Clos des Goisses lie in the exceptional steepness, the pure belemnite chalk soils, the positioning of the vines directly above the Marne river, and a directly south facing exposition. All of these combine to give average temperatures that sit over a degree higher than the rest of Champagne during the growing season, allowing Charles Philipponnat and his team to ensure fabulous grape maturity even when others struggle. The result is one of Champagne’s most impressive and dependable wines, entirely capable of legend status in years such as these.

“A wine of explosive power and energy, the 2008 Clos des Goisses is magnificent. A host of citrus, white flower, lemon confit and orchard fruit overtones race across the palate in a Goisses of striking precision, delineation and tension. The bright flavor profile is very Chardonnay-dominant at this early stage, while the weight and textural depth of the Pinot is especially evident on the mid-palate and finish. I tasted the 2008 from a bottle in disgorgement trials, so my rating is therefore in parentheses. If the commercial wine is anything like this bottle, readers will be in for a treat, as the 2008 Goisses is shaping up to be a magical Champagne.” 95-98 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com