Oh we do love Burgundy here at J&B. We love it so much that Monday saw us fill an entire room at London’s Caledonian Club with bottles of Pinot Noir from up and down the Cote d’Or. With such a long history of importing great Burgundian estates, we find ourselves in the enviable position of being able to offer good stocks of wines from multiple vintages; from the Chalonaise to Chambertin, and much in between.
There were multiple highlights, but as always there were a few wines that particularly spoke to some of us here in the buying and sales teams. Having seen his yields slashed in recent years, Eric de Suremain gave us the chance to buy back into some older vintages on one of Giles’ recent trips. The Rully Preux 2007 stood out then as it did on Monday for offering mature, ripe and hugely pleasurable drinking at an ‘on the table’ price of less than £20. With eagle eyed sommeliers out there, stock like this, perfect for a larger gathering or something mid-week, will not last long on our books.
Once again Bruno Clair’s offerings were hugely popular. For sheer value none perhaps more so than his Gevrey Chambertin 2009. That pure, firm, direct Clair character, delivered with a little polish from the 2009 vintage, makes for a very engaging mixture. At £325 a case under bond this represents one of the finest value buys of the tasting. Whilst on the subject of value, the under-appreciated Nuit St Georges vineyard of Pruliers, situated on the south side of the village in the same zone as Les St Georges, Vaucrains and Cailles had a particularly strong showing from the Gouges stable. The 2008 is a vital, vibrant and undervalued Nuits that will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar, emerging when it does as one of the great value premier crus of the region.
At the other end of spectrum, and the Cote de Nuits, many of us fell in love with the Mortet 1er Cru 2008. Arnaud Mortet is rapidly becoming one of the most exciting winemakers of not just his generation but the entire region. The Mortet progression from the powerful style of old to the ultra-refined style of today is well documented. This 2008, which still displays some attractive sweet oak, puts down a very enticing marker between the two stylistic poles. It is nigh on impossible not to love.
The final wine which made us swoon was Chantal Remy’s Latricieres Chambertin 2007. Here is a wine that marries a cooler terroir with the sweet ripeness of the 2007 vintage to devastating effect. Fragrant, gourmande and compelling, the lacy yet very moreish fruit might not win awards for longevity or intellectual complexity, but it does deliver handsomely on all important pleasure . A mature Grand Cru from a great old Domaine for less than £800 a dozen, well there are not too many of those about any more.
So there we have it. A brief snap shot of just some of our wines of the night. For more colour on the vintage please see our blog, or contact your account manager. The older vintages of 06, 07 and 08 are disappearing at a rate of knots and new vintages that come onto the market seem to vanish into thin air. For anyone with an interest in the glories that Burgundy has to offer, the time to hesitate is through.