As we wrote last year, it’s all change at Troplong Mondot. The new owners have appointed Aymeric de Gironde (formally of Cos d’Estournel and Pichon Longueville), who has in turn employed the services of the talented Mr Thomas Duclos. Monsieur Duclos’ philosophy of early harvesting and gentle extractions has already made neighbouring Chateau Canon one of the must-have wines of the right bank. It’s only a matter of time before Troplong is mentioned in the same breath. This unique terroir, above the Cote Pavie, is famed for powerful, brooding wines. With Thomas’ delicate touch, they are also discovering a freshness, intensity and charm. There’s only one direction this Chateau is going…
“The focus to this wine sets a new standard for Troplong Mondot with density and minerality that I have not encountered for decades. Lots of slate and white-pepper character. Tight and very dense. Full body. Balanced. Wild mineral character and freshness here. Precise. 97-98/100”. - James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
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“The 2018 Troplong Mondot is a remarkable wine. All the elements fall into place in a stunning, aromatically intense Troplong Mondot that is full of character. There is a level of precision and vibrancy in the 2018 that is simply breathtaking. Black cherry, raspberry, mocha, flowers, mint and spice all meld together in this captivating, arrestingly beautiful Saint-Émilion. New oak is 60%, with lower toast levels than what was common just a few years ago. The blend is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. 94-97/100”. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
Over in St Julien, Didier Cuvelier, after almost forty years at the helm of Leoville Poyferre, has handed the reigns to his cousin, Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier. Poyferre’s expression of the vintage is very striking and true to the house style; this is more of a subtle alteration rather than a wholesale change. It is still an impressive, opulent, powerful style of St Julien, but there is more energy and a bit more lift. The tannins are also more measured and harmonious than recent vintages. If this develops as we expect it to during elevage, it will be a blockbuster Poyferre.
“This is so powerful and dense with amazing tannin quality that reminds me of dense clouds, because they are agile and light. Multilayered. Extremely long, too. Punchy! One of the best wines I have ever had from here. 97-98/100”. - James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
“The 2018 Léoville-Poyferré is a stunning wine that shows a very distinct shift in style under the leadership of Sara Lecompte Cuvelier towards greater energy and vibrancy. The 2018 soars out of the glass with stunning aromatic presence. In its latest incarnation, Léoville-Poyferré is marked by a distinct emphasis on freshness and less extraction than in the past, with sweeter, riper tannins than is the norm. It will be interesting to see if that is an expression of the vintage, or a move toward a gentler approach to winemaking, but I suspect much of it is the latter. Dark red cherry, menthol, pine and wild flowers abound in a stunning, vibrant Saint-Julien that will leave readers weak at the knees. Tasted three times. 94-97/100”. - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com