Rostaing 2009
12 October 2016

Rene Rostaing’s Cote Rotie Ampodium 2009 captures all that is great about Northern Rhone Syrah. Made from a blend of parcels from some of Cote Rotie’s leading vineyards, including the wonderful La Viaillere, Ampodium speaks to the idea that the whole is better than the sum of its parts. It is classically articulated Cote Rotie at a very reasonable price.

Even more appealing is the way that the ‘09 has a silkier, friendlier mid-palate than usual; it’s more yielding and enjoyable young. The fruit remains high-toned, as animated dark berries and forest fruit dance with cracked black pepper, liquorice, violets and rock salt. Perhaps it is Rene’s fondness for whole-bunch that keeps this (a warmer vintage) virile, fresh and textured. All we can say for certain is that this is ‘digest’– crisp, clear and vital.

We drank a bottle over a period of four hours, coming back again and again, as it unfurled from a burly young Syrah into an accomplished Cote Rotie with pedigree. We love that the Rhone produces wines that aren’t for tasting but for settling in with instead.

“Drinkability” is a real strength of the Rhone. It’s also a quality not rated nearly as highly as it should be.