Some may label 2017 as a vintage to drink while you wait for your 2015s, 2016s and 2018s, but that would be a disservice to what is a very charming crop. Granted, it is a vintage in which one should be selective. The April frosts wreaked havoc for some vignerons, however, those on the best terroirs prevailed and went on to produce detailed, classically styled clarets that will give drinkers masses of pleasure. We have picked the cream of the crop – six of the very best from 2017:
It shouldn’t be a surprise to see Rauzan Segla amongst our top selections – this second growth chateau is enjoying a renaissance under the meticulous guidance of Nicolas Audebert. This is sumptuous, even sexy, bursting with ripe raspberry and sloe. The finish is effortless and despite no sign of weight, the glorious flavours coat the taste buds and linger with a real sense of fermata.
Read MoreUp the D2 in St Julien, Leoville Barton is our star performer and probably one of the most profound, and age-worthy wines on show at UGC. Typically muscular, this classical Leoville Barton is packed with cassis and notes of briar; it is broad-shouldered with splendid, quite large-scale tannins laced with beautifully detailed fruit.
Pauillac is responsible for a string of star performers. Duhart Milon didn’t really get us excited during the primeurs, but elevage has worked a little magic into this Lafite owned Fourth Growth. Classical, tight-knit, focussed Cabernet fruit with a rather aristocratic frame; there’s noticeably much more flesh on the bones – this is an impressive return to the Union tasting. The other Milon, Clerc has been flying high for many years. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, who was previously at Opus One in Napa has led a resurgence at this Mouton Rothschild owned chateau. The style is quite flamboyant; there is a heady mix of kirsch, ripe plums and pure cassis – it is generous, joyous and an absolute delight to taste – prices in the secondary market continue to soar, and on this evidence, it’s not hard to see why!
Our penultimate selection is the ever-dependable Lynch Bages. Jean-Charles' exceptional Fifth Growth really associates with the “Super Seconds”. The deep gravel croupes surrounding the village of Bages are capable of producing dark, introspective clarets with fabulous aging potential. Their recent run of form is exceptional and 2017 is another Lynch worth backing…
And finally, but by no means least; some might say we have saved the best ‘til last… we have the sensational Pichon Comtesse. Under the leadership of the hugely talented Nicolas Glumineau, the fortunes of Comtesse have soared to new heights. Toil in the vineyards, the fabulous new winery and a little bit of winemaking alchemy have transformed this into one of, if not the best of the “Super Seconds”. In most recent vintages it has been a wine of First Growth pedigree. First and foremost it is a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit is expressive and floral, yet taut and focussed. We knew the 2017 was sensational, and this tasting merely confirmed our opinion - a truly staggering 2017.