To say that Donovan Rall is on a bit of a roll is an understatement. Tasting his latest collection of 2019s, it is not hard to see why he considers it, in several places, the best vintage he has ever made.
Despite a constant stream of critical support since breaking out on his own in 2008, he has never been afraid to continually tweak and refine his style, pursuing a vision of his own: one that continues to engage and excite lovers of the new South Africa. Like their creator, these wines are highly distinctive, produced through a lot of gut feeling and well-placed handshakes. His friendly personality and obvious viticultural and winemaking talent provides him access to the top South African vineyards, mostly but not exclusively in the Swartland, and amazingly, he seems to find a new edge every year. For all that though, Donovan is still a humble, garagista producer, and these 2019 releases go a long way towards achieving his long-term ambition to produce juicier, tauter, and more ageworthy wines, both red and white. And if any further endorsement were required, although less keen on the Cinsault Blanc, Jancis Robinson MW nevertheless describes it as “a completely brilliant set of wines.” High praise indeed!
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The reds in the new collection speak to a nuanced, savoury, subtle style in spite of their hot climate origins. The Cinsault is a wine of pretty, moreish drinkability, while the Red 2018, which is always released a year later, is a silky, generous Syrah-based blend perfect for the autumn, and described as “wonderfully savoury, densely woven and complex” by Jancis. Both of the Ava bottlings have hit new heights this year and sit confidently amongst the finest single vineyard wines in South Africa.
“There is always a sense when tasting the wines of Donovan Rall that he is not inclined to operate strictly according to the rules. The result is that everything he makes is at least intriguing while his very best wines are truly extraordinary in their presence and distinctiveness.” – Christian Eedes, July 2020.
“[Rall White 2019] Pale gold. Complex nose with seriously fresh acidity and a nose that really could be described as a bouquet of floral aromas. Plus the tang of true, old-vine Chenin Blanc and the promise of a long life. Seems underpriced for the probity of intention and promise of ageability. It would seem a shame to drink this before 2021 and possibly even before 2022. Some fashionable light bitterness on the end.” – 17pts, Jancis Robinson MW, October 2020.
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