For those in the know, Cordoba Crescendo was South Africa’s original cult wine in the post-Apartheid era. Long before Columella, in the mid-1990s, Cordoba was one of the most revered wines in the Cape, and its maiden vintage 1995 made a name for Chris Keet, cellarmaster at the time. A Cabernet Franc-led Bordeaux blend from the Heldeberg Ward of Stellenbosch, elevation here ranges from 230-350m, just 7km from False Bay. That combination of altitude and proximity to the ocean allows for a natural cooling system, perfect for the later ripening Bordeaux varieties. Sadly, by the early 2000s the then-owners lost interest in the farm and Keet moved on to pastures new. The last vintage bottled under the Cordoba brand was 2003, although the wine was bottled for a few more years and sold off unlabelled at ridiculously low prices. From 2006, the vineyards were maintained but only as a source of grapes for other producers in the area. All signs pointed to the demise of a former icon.
Happily though, new owners took over in 2017 and set about building a new winery surrounded by the original estate vineyards. It is now called Taaibosch, named after the indigenous fynbos species that grows in abundance on the estate. Located on the steep slopes of the Heldeberg it enjoys 360-degree orientation and views over Cape Town and Table Mountain. Schalk-Willam Joubert has been installed as the new cellarmaster and, in keeping with the legacy of the property, plans to continue the focus on one Cabernet Franc based red, which has also been christened Crescendo. In that regard, it is a direct descendant of the original Cordoba bottlings, except it now benefits from the experience of two decades’ worth of a revived and dramatically improved wine culture in South Africa.
Read MoreThe 2018 is the first commercial release under the Taaibosch label. Some would argue that it was the most talked-about release of 2021 in the local market. We are delighted to have a small allocation to play with. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and cement before aging in French barrique, a third of which is new. Blending takes place after 14 months before a further year in a combination of large oak and cement tanks before bottling. The wine is round and polished and sumptuous, with cool cracked spices, lovely sweet tannins and a seam of wild herb and cassis and blackberry fruits which wash across the palate.
Tim Atkin MW: “Very few recent South African releases have been as eagerly awaited as this 2018 red from the old Cordoba property on the flank of the Helderberg. And it doesn't disappoint in the slightest. Cabernet Franc-centred, with 24% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, the new crescendo is a beautifully refined, detailed red from 21-year-old vines. Violet and cut grass aromas lead into a palate that is fresh, bright and comparatively low in alcohol with filigree tannins, subtle wood, fine tension and the focus and balance to age. What a début! 2024-2032.” 97 points and ‘Red Wine Discovery of the Year’ and Platter 5 Stars *