“Jacky Blot is a revolutionary figure in Montlouis. His wines at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups have become a benchmark for dry Chenin Blancs.” Jason Wilson, Vinous.com
In his recent article on Vinous.com, Jason Wilson waxes lyrical about Loire Chenin Blanc. This has long been home to some of our favourite non-Burgundian French whites– the source of racy, dry wines that stimulate the mind and refresh the palate in equal measure. It’s a versatile variety, capable of producing world class sweeties, great value fizz and scintillating bone-dry wines.
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Our moustachioed maestro of Montlouis is Jacky Blot, a man who almost single handedly put the appellation on the map. Today, from its position opposite Vouvray, Montlouis stands shoulder to shoulder with its historically more famous and much larger neighbour. The rivalry between the two is fierce, and it is the smaller but more progressive Montlouis that is making most of today’s running. With ‘legendary’ producers like Jacky carefully and organically tending is old vines on tuffeau and silex, Montlouis’ reputation as the source of some of France’s most electric and exciting Chenin Blanc is in good hands…
Two of the highest scoring (and least expensive) wines in Jason Wilson’s recent article are Jacky’s Hauts de Husseau and Clos Mosny, both from the extremely good 2017 vintage. Each has been bestowed with a lofty 95/100, not bad at just £23.68 a bottle all in. Jacky is fortunate to work with a great many old vineyards, and the percentage of old vine material in these gems goes some way to explaining the mineral depths that Jacky is able to cram into each bottle. Open them now for bottled electricity, or in five years time for a little more of Chenin’s lip-smacking depth to emerge.
Clos Mosny
“Light golden in color. A gorgeous nose, with grilled tropical fruit, fresh herb, even a touch of wild flower and fresh-cut grass. Lighter on the palate than 2018, lively and full of verve, with hints of fresh grapefruit and tangerine. Finishes on edgy minerality, and stony, racy notes. Such a pure expression of Chenin Blanc. From Blot’s 12-hectare monopole vineyard with clay and silex soils.” 95/100 Vinous.com
Les Hauts de Hausseau
“From 70-year-old vines grown at some of the highest altitude sites in Montlouis. Golden yellow in color. Aromas of beeswax, pear, and quine and flavors of lime, melon, apple, and fennel. Puckery on the midpalate with tart ruby red grapefruit and sea salt notes. Finishes long, dry, and chalky. It’s ready now, but give it a year or two and this will continue its gorgeous development.” 95/100 Vinous.com