The next chapter in the Durantou dynasty

16 February 2024

Antonio Galloni has published his in-bottle scores and they confirm our initial opinion – these are brilliant, serious, vibrant wines you’ll want to come back to time and again.

What is the mark of a great winemaker? Some might say greatness is best measured in the most challenging vintages. And they don’t come much more complicated than 2013! Following an exacting tasting of the 2013s, one man’s wines seemed to defy the vintage, and there are no prizes for guessing… it was the late, great Denis Durantou.

So, if the likes of Chenade, Cruzelles and Montlandrie shone in 2013, how good are they in a belter of a vintage like 2020? Well, this isn’t like comparing apples and apples. Following Denis’ untimely death, his daughter, Noëmie took charge, ably assisted by Denis’ long-standing cellarmaster, Olivier Gautrat. She’s clearly inherited her father’s winemaking flair. The range is as compelling as ever. We adored these wines when we tasted them from barrel; during elevage they have flourished. Antonio Galloni has published his in-bottle scores and they confirm our initial opinion – these are brilliant, serious, vibrant wines you’ll want to come back to time and again.

“The 2020 Montlandrie, the Durantou family's Côtes de Castillon, is fabulous. It is another very serious wine in this range. A core of dark Merlot fruit gradually opens, releasing complicating notes of spice, leather, incense and licorice. There's real depth and gravitas. A few years in the cellar seem prudent, as there is a lot of wine here. The purity of the flavors is just striking. 94/100

“The 2020 Les Cruzelles is a serious, potent Lalande de Pomerol that is going to need a few years to soften. I wouldn't think of touching a bottle any time soon. Firm yet well-balanced tannins lend energy and drive. Black cherry, graphite, sage, mint, tobacco and incense add to an impression of virile intensity that gains vigour over time. This is such a gorgeous and inviting wine. 93/100

“The 2020 La Chenade is rich, sumptuous and super-expressive right out of the gate. All of the exuberance of the year comes through loud and clear. A burst of black cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, lavender and spice infuses the Chenade with tons of complexity. Broad and creamy, with fine balance, the Chenade is showing so well today. The combination of fruit density and energy is compelling. 92/100

“The 2020 Saintayme is every bit as charming as it was en primeur. Racy and layered in the glass, this mid-weight Saint-Émilion is quite open and accessible today. Crushed red berry fruit, spice, white pepper, rose petal and a touch of new oak are all nicely put together. I would give this a few years to come together, as the tannins are a bit nervy today. There's terrific energy and vibrancy here. Pretty floral accents liven up the finish. 92/100

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