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Two extraordinary wines
12 June 2019

We wait for months for a First growth, and then, like London buses, there’s a queue of them… Margaux was met with rapturous approval and will be allocated in due course. Now it’s the turn of Mouton Rothschild (£2556/6) and Haut Brion (£2450/6). These are both staggering wines for their sheer scale. They are clearly both vins de garde in every sense, but while some wines in 2018 have achieved mass, only the very best have the detail, nuance and harmony on the tannins that suggest they belong in a different realm. Mouton and Haut Brion have clearly achieved this. In fact, this taster cannot ever remember tasting such an impressive young Haut Brion – this could be a modern-day incarnation of the 1989. As for Mouton, it is hard to make comparisons – this is unlike anything we have tasted before. Far more generous and seductive than the 1986 or 2005, more refined and focussed than the 1982, 2009 and 2010. It is perhaps a more opulent and concentrated version of the 2016. These are two Chateaux very much at the pinnacle of their games and they have pulled out all the stops with their 2018s. Our only regret is that yields were meagre due the extended drought. As a result, both wines are on allocation. We can also offer tiny quantities of their respective white wines, Aile d’Argent and Haut Brion Blanc, and their second labels, Petit Mouton and Clarence Haut Brion.    Read More

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