From the “outrageously beautiful” DI CO to a flagship Farella that is “dazzling in its beauty”, Massimo di Costanzo has moved the dial in 2018, producing his best range of wines yet. The 2018s mark the first vintage produced in a new facility, and the first relatively cool year to grace the valley since 2011. With a long hang time and relaxed harvest window, it was a vintage that allowed conscientious winemakers to produce exactly the style of wine they wanted.
For Di Costanzo, this is a style of wine first made popular by Screaming Eagle, where Massimo worked during 2006 and 2007. It is one that relies on tension, structure and freshness over density, sweet fruit and richness. Working exclusively with Cabernet Sauvignon, Massimo has achieved a remarkable balancing act, allowing each single vineyard to shine within the framework of the distinctive Di Costanzo style. They remind us of the wines that were being made in the Napa in the early 90s, before the move to riper, richer, point-chasing wines.
Read MoreOf the three single vineyards, Farella hails from Coombsville, an AVA nestled in the south eastern corner of Napa Valley, directly influenced by the cool breezes of the San Pablo Bay. At one time considered too cool for Cabernet, it is now widely regarded as something of a sweet spot. As the climate has changed, summer daytime temperatures can be a full 10 degrees (F) colder here than in Calistoga, which allows for wonderfully vibrant wines of great personality. In 2018 Farella blends dark base minerality with gorgeous upper floral and red fruit notes to devastating effect. With extremely fine tannins, great freshness but also depth, it will be a fascinating wine to follow over the next two decades. Galloni has awarded it a lofty 95-98/100, saying, “Vivid and mesmerizing with striking perfume, inner sweetness and fabulous balance, the 2018 is dazzling in its beauty. Wow!” A mere 390 cases were produced.
Alongside this Montecillo is a completely different site. Perched high up on Moon Mountain on the western slopes of the Maycamas range, the iron rich soils here are much cherished by those lucky enough to farm them. It is something of a legendary Sonoma site, and Massimo is fortunate to have access to the original 1967 plantings: vines that produce tiny, aromatic and intense grapes. In Massimo’s hands, this result is a Californian Cabernet of real singularity – a mountain Cabernet of exotic spice and striking aromatic complexity, structured but also lifted and translucent. Awarding it 94-97/100, Galloni describes it as, “Another highlight in this range” and “full of the pedigree that has made this Moon Mountain site so revered”. At just 145 cases is the smallest production of all the cuvees and will be on allocation.
The last cuvee DI CO is also a single vineyard bottling, and the wine Massimo jokingly calls his recession wine. Produced from the Raphael vineyard, a benchland site with 30-year-old vines, it receives all the same care and attention as the rest of the range. Straddling the Mt. Veeder and Oak Knoll districts, the soils here give a little more richness, and the result is a wine that’s approachable slightly earlier. In 2018, Massimo has quite simply knocked this cuvee out of the park. Having featured as a by-the-glass listing at both The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park, it has both Michelin credentials and in 2018, a score of 93-95/100 from Galloni. A single vineyard Napa at this price made with real intention from start to finish, is a rare beast. It’s no surprise that Galloni goes on to state, “Vivid and aromatically intense with huge depth of fruit, the 2018 is another thrilling wine from Massimo di Costanzo.” Only 500 cases produced.
We’re big fans of Massimo’s wines – his philosophy revolves around working great plots as single vineyard cuvees, focussing on acid-driven, structured wines built to age. It’s the vision of one extraordinary man, at a scale small enough to ensure his hands are the only ones to touch these wines. An entirely authentic take on Californian Cabernet, these 2018s have the potential to be legends.
The wines will be shipped in early 2021. Quantities are extremely limited so please contact your account manager or follow the link below to request an allocation.