Castro Candaz is a new project from Bierzo legend Raúl Pérez and leading Rias Baixas producer Rodrigo Méndez. Together they form a power duo in north western Spain, drawing off each other’s local know-how and expertise to craft some of the most sought after wines in the country. In 2005, they established the now top Rias Baixas estate Forjas del Salnés. Raul was instrumental in Mendez’s pursuance and eventual grasp of elegant, high toned reds to compliment his quality whites and, in return, Raul’s infamous “Sketch” Albarino was born. They have since decided to join forces once more, this time in the mountainous Ribeira Sacra area, truly one of the most awe-inspiring regions in Europe.
Raúl already had a foothold in the region with Adegas Guimaro, where he produces his two most famous Ribeira Sacra bottlings: La Penitencia and El Pecado. However, these hail from the warmer Amandi district of the appellation, where the vineyards are schist dominated. With Mendez, he wanted to do something different, and together they scouted out the cooler, less well-known Chantada appellation, where the Sil River widens and the soils are predominantly granite-based. As of January this year they have found a more permanent, but unassuming winemaking facility, with enough space to expand and enhance the reputation of this incredibly exciting young project. Justerini & Brooks is delighted to be the first to import these wines in the UK.
Read MoreIn these wines, Raúl’s instinctive touch with Mencia and other Galician varieties is plain to see. Moreover, each of his projects offer something entirely fresh and different. Here in Chantada, the wines bristle with energy, and have a salty, almost Syrah-esque intensity, compared to the more Burgundian, soulful wines of Bierzo. Unfortunately though, 2017 was a small crop, badly affected by frost which reduced yields, followed by a hot dry summer, which concentrated what was left and resulted in a very early harvest (a full 25 days earlier than the more classic 2018). In some ways, these ‘17s are therefore atypical representations of the cooler, more mineral Chantada. On the plus side, they are the perfect introduction to those less familiar with the region thanks to 2017’s softer, fuller bodies, round, sweet tannins and layers of suave, complex fruit.
Finca El Curvado is produced from a blend of sites with average of 45 to 70 years old vines, Mencia dominated, but co-fermented according to the natural composition of the vineyard, so potentially includes up to 20% other varieties (including whites). A Boca do Demo is a single vineyard and the product of just one fuder. More overtly spicy and structured with lithe, detailed fruit, finishing on salted minerals and graphite. Both wines see 100% whole bunch fermentation and around 30 days on the skins with no pigeage, encouraging colour and flavours to seep naturally and gradually in to the wines before aging in neutral oak for around a year. In his classic, self-effacing fashion Raul Perez says that “these wines are the product of truly heroic viticulture. I just walk them to the finish line.”