This is a stunning set of wines from Ken and Erica Pahlow; a range of single vineyard bottlings from some of Oregon’s finest vineyards, all situated in the Willamette Valley’s cool, windswept Eola-Amity hills. It might well transpire that 2018 marks something of a watershed vintage for this decade old winery – certainly tasting the four 2018s in today’s offer suggests as much.
Having worked the harvest with Dominque Lafon in Meursault in 2017, the one major change Ken applied to all his vineyards from the 2018 vintage onwards was early shoot thinning. Not only did an early approach negate the need to green harvest, it also seemed to give the vines a better sense of natural balance. In studying and aping the viticultural methods favoured by his Burgundian idols, the likes of Lafon, Roulot, Ente and Lamy, Ken found that his reduced yields were both riper and higher in acidity almost two weeks earlier neighbours who were still hanging a normal Willamette valley crop load. The resulting wines, as can be tasted in these 2018s, show increased definition, flavour development and concentration, with no additional alcohol or density. They are in short, dialled in and tuned up, and a total joy to taste, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
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The growing season was a pretty classic Willamette valley vintage, though very dry through the summer and with the occasional heat spike. September was cool, allowing for a measured ripening curve as harvest approached. The wines have freshness yet drive and a multi-layered character with delicate planes of flavour and nuance that take a little time to unwind. The iconic Seven Springs vineyard, Walter Scott being one of the very few wineries to be granted access to its fruit, has produced an extremely elegant, translucent Pinot Noir, all flowers and red fruits, and a Chardonnay of wonderful tension and poise that shows off flinty, roasted nut and lemon oil flavours in a very pure and refined package. X-Novo Chardonnay, planted to a dizzyingly diverse clonal selection is extremely complex, athletic and multi-layered, with a finish that goes on and on, while Sojourner Pinot Noir, from a cool, high site, is a wine of volcanic stones, tea, black plums and complex spice that shows off a combination of depth and drive that is highly alluring.
All of the wines in today’s offer, while very enjoyable today, would benefit from at least two further years’ cellaring.
As ever, we are delighted to be the exclusive importers for Ken and Erica’s wines. Not a lot is produced and even less leaves the country. Stocks are in short supply and once they’re gone, they’re gone. The wines are in stock and available for immediate delivery. To place an order please follow the link below or contact your account manager.