All in the name of progress – Calon Segur vertical

All in the name of progress – Calon Segur vertical

A providentially timed email resulted in an invitation we couldn’t refuse – a vertical tasting with Vincent Millet, followed by lunch in the recently refurbished chateau. This proved to be a fascinating opportunity to gauge the progress of Calon Segur over the last decade and enjoy some memorable bottles.

We started with 2008, when the vineyard was planted with 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot at a density as low as 5,000 vines per hectare, below the AOC limit. Today, after a massive re-planting program, the vineyards are planted at a density of 10,000 feet per hectare, and Cabernet plays are more dominant role (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 30% Merlot). This has been a long and labourious process and it isn’t finished yet. Vincent explained that there are still 11 hectares to grub up; the last parcel won’t be completed until 2035. We finished with our first glimpse at their outstanding 2019. The intervening years demonstrate the chateau’s relentless pursuit of quality and continuing refinement.

2008

Fine boned, detailed, high acidity style. Very refreshing, not concentrated, but open and mouth-watering and with a bit of persistence. Lovely, sweet raspberry and loganberry notes coming through. Composed, floral and well balanced.

2009

90% Cabernet Sauvignon, a generous vintage with a wild spicy nose. Clearly warmer and more sumptuous with juicy, pretty, red fruits, a hint of iron and blood orange, layered over ripe red fruits and exotic spices. Deceptively charming with notes of kirsch and liqueur fruit followed by some earth, spicy dryness to finish on a serious note.

2010

Deeper, darker colour. Brooding and mineral. It tastes like there is more Cabernet Sauvignon than the 2009 (although it has 4% less). Definitely more tight-knit and edgy with a deep, intense but straight-laced core – there’s a firmness without being drying. The tannins are not as round as its predecessor’s. Very graphite and mineral, taut and powerful with a wonderful line. Very good indeed, but a less voluptuous and sexy style than the ravishing 2009. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.

2011

The drought year of 2011 resulted in an early harvest, finished by the end of September.  Open red fruit, blood orange and spice. It is still shedding those tell-tale 2011 tannins, but it feels more open than the 2010. There’s plenty of rustic charm and lots of lovely open fruit. An excellent 2011 laced with fruit. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, cropped at 38hl hl/ha.

2012

A much later harvest, finished on the 16th of October. There's a coolness to the fruit here. Cassis, maybe a touch of blood orange, ferrous notes. Savoury, peppery, iodine nose, with sensual dark gravelly fruit more towards the 2010 in profile, but sweeter and more open. The palate is packed with sweet, dark berry and red berry fruit and cherry tobacco notes. Overall, this is a pretty but not grand Calon, finishing with some slightly earthy notes. A rather lovely example, well balanced, with surprising length. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 38hl/ha.

2013

Harvest finished on the 13th October. Yields were low due to coulure on the Merlot (36 hl/ha). Clearly from an edgier vintage, less sweetness, fresh though not vegetal. There's some pretty floral fruit, cherries, not much mid-palate but there's nothing ugly or out of place. The tannins are a little exposed, but overall, surprisingly good though clearly from a crunchier, less ripe tannic profile. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.

2014

A superb year for St Estephe, although the Merlots reached high levels of ripeness and alcohol. Lots of brooding mineral notes, iodine, iron, over oak and crème de cassis. Beautifully textured, with loads of a hedgerow fruit, ripe cocoa and dark fruit sweetness. Unctuous and velvety, but with surprisingly fine boned detailed. Pure, slick and impeccably balanced, this is a very handsome Calon. Produced from 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, cropped at 41 hl/ha.

2015

Following a fabulous growing season, the north wind brought inauspiciously timed rain to St Estephe during the harvest. Cabernet Franc wasn’t used in the blend as it was too dilute. Rather Flamboyant and sexy with a floral, redder profile, followed by open, lifted, sunny fruit on the palate. Supple and ripe with enough mid-palate weight. The tannins don't hold the mouth with the same interest as the 2014, they are perhaps a little edgy by comparison, but they still harbour plenty of pretty fragrant red and dark fruit as well as some cocoa notes. Fragrant, pretty and very seductive. To be enjoyed over the short to mid-term. Yield 47 hl/ha, 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.

2016

We see a big change here. New technology to cool the fruit at reception and much more precision in picking as well as vinifying parcel by parcel. Started with micro bullage for gentle extractions. Gorgeous already, packed with very showy, detailed fruit. Such wonderful texture. Refined and pure. Notes of Griotte and raspberry mix with forest fruits and sumptuous summer pudding. Effortless with glorious almost imperceptible tannins initially, but then you feel their presence lacing the palate with bright berry fruit. More reserved and classical than the 2019, but equally ravishing. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. 32 hl/ha

2017

A little more oak, dried herb and cocoa to the nose, then some expressive floral notes and bright fruits. Open, sweet, youthful red and dark fruit attack, laced with sweet cocoa and Provence herbs. The mid-palate is packed with sweet berries, perhaps a bit one dimensional but beautifully constructed and will give plenty of enjoyment. Slightly drier and less well-rounded tannins yet well covered by sweet fresh fruit. Good fresh acidity but you can feel a little dryness to the tannins. Like a riper 2012. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 44 hl/ha

2018

Impressive brooding bouquet of loganberry kirsch and minerals. Lots of graphite and ripe raspberries. Explosive oaky undertones and blood orange on the open nose, then a sense of warmth, like the 2009, but more powerful and darker. Sumptuous, full and sweet fruit, dark berries blood oranges and some liquorice too, warm and rich but balanced by well rounded tannins. Powerful and super seductive Lots of purple fruit. If not typical. Definitely not a classic Calon, but impressive and imposing. 41 hl/ha, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.

2019

One is instantly struck by this expressive and complex bouquet. It blends irises and violets with pure cassis, sandalwood Asian spices, sensual dark fruits, orange and graphite. It shimmers in the glass. The palate is spherical and coats the palate with an impressive array of gloriously ripe fruit. Then it turns linear with ravishing tannins that hold the palate and offer a canvass of minerals and fine fruit. More composed than the 2018, there’s lots of high-toned violet notes and a nice steadying grip to the finish. Hugely complex and decadent but not overdone. Outstanding! 40 hl/ha, 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot.

We were then spoilt with two special bottles over lunch, both served blind. The first turned out to be 1961 Calon Segur. Fading colour hinted at its maturity, the quality and precision of the fruit belied its years. It grew in the glass, displaying a wonderful, delicate perfume and plenty of verve. Where do you go after `61 Calon Segur we thought? Well Vincent plucked a `29 Calon out, which had a deeper colour and appeared fresher and younger then the magnificent `61. He explained that it was bottled at something near 11% degrees of alcohol, had absurdly high acidity and was probably off the charts tannic, but with ninety plus years in bottle, it was magnificent. How lucky we are tasting from barrel these days; they needed gums of steel back then!

Our thanks to Stephanie and Vincent for a memorable tasting and wonderful lunch.