2010 White Burgundy

2010 White Burgundy

Tuesday 9th July 2019
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

Last week Burgundy-specialist merchants and journalists gathered to taste 29 White Burgundies from the 2010 vintage, an experience that was impressive and, dare I say, surprising. The element that was most encouraging being the absence of premoxed wines. 

Almost all were in good condition, except a slightly tired, bruised-fruit Pernot Belicard Puligny that may have just been a bad bottle and a Terre de Velle Puligny that was just about holding on. The regional wines, at the lowest end of the quality pyramid, were tiring a little but nothing more than you would have expected and still showed rather well considering.  Certain wines displayed  more unctuosity alcohol and exotic fruit, recalling the botrytis that affected some of the crop, these were fine and still very much alive now but did not necessarily offer excitement or suggest further ageing potential. For me the greatest wines in the vintage are clearly still very youthful indeed, they have a drive and energy, a clarity of flavour, all of which combined with great finesse. I was thrilled by how many of these wines there were. High acidity was a common feature across the tasting but where it melded into ripe but not excessively ripe fruit, you have a beautiful and seamless marriage. The wines that embodied these qualities most in this tasting were from Puligny, which for me was the most consistent commune. Chassagne was a notch down but still good and above the less consistent Meursaults but I think this was more to do with the selection of producers rather than commune traits. Corton was the least well performing but this to me feels like a question of commune and not producer. Then again, it was a small sample to judge on. 

Overall this was an excellent tasting, the encouraging conclusion of which was that the best wines still have plenty more to give – and there were far more examples of these than either 2009 or 2008 displayed at the same stage in their life, back in 2018 and 2017 respectively.

Spain 2018: Full steam ahead!

Spain 2018: Full steam ahead!

Monday 24th June 2019
by Mark Dearing

After a largely troublesome 2017 vintage across most parts of Spain, variously because of frost, hail and drought, the 2018 harvest has refreshed spirits in several of Spain’s most prominent wine regions. 

“Refreshed” in more ways than one as, contrasting the northern reaches of Europe, 2018 is by no means a “solaire” vintage in Spain. Where some struggled, particularly in Galicia and Rioja, because of mildew in spring and early summer, then showers during the harvest which brought with them unwelcome botrytis and necessitated work on the sorting table, others, like Sara Perez at Mas Martinet describe 2018 as a “new inflection point in the history of Priorat”. Alvaro Palacios agrees. “The vineyards were re-born. We had plentiful rain in the winter to build up water reserves, an even spring and a warm but not excessively hot summer. The wines combine beautiful richness of fruit with a clear sense of energy and freshness.” Barrel tastings in Priorat indicate that 2018 will go down as a truly outstanding vintage for the region. Alcohols are lower and the wines stimulating and mineral without wanting for presence or depth.

A memorable vertical of Clos des Ducs

A memorable vertical of Clos des Ducs

Wednesday 22nd May 2019
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

When an invitation to a 29 wine vertical of Marquis d’Angerville’s Monopole Clos des Ducs landed on my e-doorstep, I did not think twice.  Invites like this don’t come round very often, in fact it may be the only chance I ever get to taste this wine so extensively, I thought to myself.  

Guillaume d’Angerville had hosted such a tasting on only two previous occasions, one at the estate and one in the US. As the small group of importers and journalists sat there in d’Angerville’s cellars, a collective and very palpable sense of excitement was building. By the end of both an enjoyable and educational tasting, there was a sense we had all partaken in something very special. A feeling exuded by Guillaume as much as anyone else, for whom tasting pre 2003 vintages must have brought back vivid recollections of his father. Great wine should not only be a highly pleasurable sensory experience but an evocative and emotional one that creates memories, and as such is all the better for being shared. The Clos des Ducs tasting proved this as much as any I have been to. 

Bordeaux 2018 - The Wine Advocate scores are in

Bordeaux 2018 - The Wine Advocate scores are in

Wednesday 24th April 2019
by Tom Jenkins

Many will remember waiting enthusiastically for the Wine Advocate to drop through the letterbox, or for a poor resolution scan to be emailed from the States, via Bordeaux. The age of the internet has made distribution more equitable and efficient, but maybe some of the romance and thrill has ebbed away. 

Anyway, enough nostalgia, the scores are in and it’s fair to say that Lisa Perrotti-Brown is a big fan. Her report echoes our thoughts on this magical vintage – extreme peaks and a bit of mediocrity. It’s a fascinating read. For those who do not subscribe, we have quoted some of the most salient bits below. We have also listed the 12 potential 100 point wines.

‘In this vintage of extremes, a producer undaunted by flirting with disaster and with a bit of luck on his/her side could well have sailed over the finish line to glory with all the flair and panache of Alain Prost. Or they could have cartwheeled down the track, combusting into a ball of flames. 2018 offers us the thrill of victory for a number of wineries, the agony of defeat for a few and a whole lot of also-rans…

A Spotlight on Burgundy

A Spotlight on Burgundy

Wednesday 17th April 2019
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

Since our inception in St James’s in 1749, Justerini & Brooks has always looked to push boundaries and explore new territories in the world of fine wine. Before it found such popularity over the last decade or so, Burgundy had long been at the heart of our illustrious portfolio.  

In 1992 Hew Blair pioneered the introduction of Burgundy En Primeur tastings by becoming the first British merchant to showcase barrel samples from family-owned Burgundy domaines to private customers, fundamentally altering the way the UK bought its Burgundy.  Hew would go on to become our Chairman in 2008, a position he still holds to this day, and served as President of the Royal Warrant Holders Association in 2011. During his 45 years of service to the company Hew has watched the wine world blossom, seeing Burgundy go from the point of near commercial irrelevance to its current position as one of the most coveted wine-producing regions in the world. We now buy from over fifty producers and are immensely proud to be one of the largest domaine-bottled Burgundy importers in the UK.

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