A New Year message: Letter from London

Few could have presumed that within weeks of a new decade beginning we would become so absorbed in navigating such sinuously unfolding tragedy. Long months indeed and significant setbacks became the test of each of us as coronavirus overtook our wishes for 2020. Like many businesses Justerini & Brooks was forced to adapt, and re-adapt, at some pace. It is a testament to the teams and individuals within Justerini & Brooks, as well as to the companies which partner with us, that such profound changes were absorbed into our business practices so quickly. It would be far from accurate to paint a summary of 2020 which was somehow positive, but the reality is there was much in those endeavours which provides both pride and hope.

The start of a new year should be a time to review and reflect. A pause before the rhythm gets set for the year ahead. Here at Justerini & Brooks a great deal of activity continues to fill our time. 

Back in January 1991 we encouraged a small group of our Burgundy growers to bottle some cask samples and bring them over for Justerini & Brooks’ customers to taste before they bought. It was the first UK primeur tasting of Burgundy focussed on private individuals. Little did we realise how dramatically that would grow. Most pleasingly we still represent many of those estates that made that journey from France. In fact, I write this note from our Edinburgh office where this year we are extending our primeur tastings to include the New Club on Princes Street. It allows our Scottish customers to taste the new wines, and meet some of the growers, the day before the now huge London tastings begin. Bruno Clair, among others, is personally here. As he was for that very first Justerini & Brooks tasting in London back in 1991. 

Singapore is a market which has long been particularly close to Justerini & Brooks.  A country filled with substantial and highly knowledgeable private collectors, Justerini & Brooks wine dinners in the private dining room within the Four Seasons hotel – dinners which began as soon as that hotel was first built and still run regularly today - have become the stuff of legend. Regularly attracting the biggest wine collectors from Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia.

They were in attendance again last week for a series of fabulous Clos de Tart dinners.  Jacques Devauges, the new winemaker at the estate, flew in to Singapore especially for the events.  Clos de Tart is indeed a rare and special wine from a truly ancient estate.  Founded in 1141, it is one of only five Grand Cru monopoles.  It also happens to provide the oldest history that Justerini & Brooks has with a Burgundy estate.  In fact, a beautiful bottle of Clos de Tart 1928, bottled by Justerini & Brooks, still holds pride of place back in St. James’s street. 

What an extraordinary week!  Just two days after we welcomed Jacques Thienpont, who’d kindly flown over to dine with our Le Pin customers in Justerini & Brooks’ private dining room, we welcomed back our close friends Baptiste and Julie Guinaudeau of Château Lafleur to do the same. 

It is always such a delight to have them over for these dinners in St. James’s.  Our customers love their illuminating and engaging insights on the fascinating wines of Lafleur.

We began the evening with a chilled glass of Dom Perignon 2004 before moving upstairs to our dining room.  The first wine of the evening, once sat down, was the Guinaudeau’s quite delicious white – Les Champs Libres 2014.  It’s a beautiful wine which matched our chef’s slightly spicy crab gratin perfectly. 100% Sauvignon Blanc, barrel-fermented, and from Sancerre clones - the warmer Bordeaux weather gives the wine a little extra intensity on the palate.  But still with that linear Sauvignon feel and a fresh, high-toned nose.  Unquestionably a wine that keeps pulling you back for another sip.

Last night was a rare privilege.  Our private dining room in St. James’s, the host of many truly wonderful evenings over the years, had the pleasure of welcoming Jacques Thienpont over from Bordeaux for the very first time. 

Jacques flew in to meet some of our customers who have been buying Le Pin.  It was quite the gathering.  All deep admirers of this iconic Bordeaux estate. We started the evening with a small glass of L’If ’14.  Jacques’ little St Emilion baby as he called it.  It showed a lovely balance with pure, silky fruits and was a first experience of L’If for many of those attending.