It’s over thirty years since a group of pioneering British
merchants first met in the small, seaside town of Southwold to assess a young
Bordeaux vintage under blind tasting conditions.
Luminaries such as the late
John Avery and Bill Blatch, along with the likes of Clive Coates MW and our
very own Hew Blair, were amongst the first tasters. Although the venue has
changed, the name remains, as does the spirit and professionalism. The results
are eagerly anticipated by Bordeaux Chateaux; this is the ultimate litmus test,
affirmation of years of hard work or hard truths.
Now, here comes the caveat: this is perhaps not the most
flattering time to taste these wines. In fact, in my experience it is one of
the worst… Although barrel samples can be variable, there is an undeniable
freshness and purity of fruit. Just after bottling, they are equally
flattering, a year and a half after bottling, they are usually less gratifying.
2009 is a notable exception – these have always been gloriously easy to taste.
The 2015s attracted comparisons to 2009 from barrel; however, on this showing,
they are less flamboyant and more structured. There are very many notable
successes, but it is by no means as uniform or as easy to taste as those
spectacular 2009s.