18 again 

This year, the venerable tasters of Southwold-upon-Thames convened to re-sample the ever so slightly controversial 2018s. By my recollection, there was a small transatlantic split of opinion as to the success of the vintage: American critics loved the ripeness and opulence, declaring it an immediate hit; the British press was more circumspect. A vintage of two halves: initially humid, with huge mildew pressure, particularly for the advocates of biodynamic farming, then dry and hot with an unhurried harvest yielding small, concentrated berries. The merits are far easier to evaluate in bottle, and it seems on reflection that neither assessment was entirely accurate. It’s not another vintage of the century, as some might have suggested. 2009, 2010, 2016 and 2019 are clearly a notch above. However, amongst the top crus, it’s a very strong range, probably on a par with 2015 – or maybe marginally better. One feels the “solaire” character with the richness and concentration, yet the wines retain a classical charm and elegance. They are unmistakably Bordeaux. 

Wednesday saw the welcome return of the UGC (Union des Grands Crus) to London. As ever, Lindley Hall provided the well-ventilated venue to showcase the spectacular 2019s.

Released during the pessimistic outlook of lockdown and economic abyss, Bordeaux provided a rare ray of sunshine in a gloomy climate. Most of the UK trade lobbied to postpone the annual en primeur campaign. We were one of the few dissenting voices. Ultimately, the Bordelais decided to revise the commonly held premise that, “You can’t send barrel samples,” and, rather than tasting in the architectural cathedrals of Aquitaine, we gathered around my garden table. From our first encounters, we knew that 2019 was remarkable. Quality and consistency across the board, even from Chateaux we’d normally circumvent.

We are delighted to bring you the Justerini & Brooks Masters' Series: a virtual masterclass spotlighting an everyday drinking wine from one of the world’s greatest winemakers. The famous adage that the best producers can trump region, appellation and vintage is often true, and our Masters’ Series will prove that enjoying wines from legendary producers is a pleasure that is open to all.

UPCOMING VIRTUAL MASTERCLASSES

- Schedule to be updated in the coming days.

"Tout est Grand en 2019!"

These are the words of our dear friend, Denis Durantou, who passed away on the 14th of May this year. 2019 will be remembered by us as his last vintage in a spectacular career spanning four decades. Denis was always succinct because he had so much to do! Reviving the great L’Eglise Clinet, starting new projects, planting new vineyards, running a négociant business. He was a force of nature. It seems fitting to quote his analysis – it captures everything one needs to know using the absolute minimum number of characters… “There was water when it was needed from July to September, a rapid flowering, cool nights, colour change which varied according to the grape varieties but which was homogeneous overall, and a harvest in fine dry conditions. Everything is great in 2019!”

Omri Ram from Château Lafleur and Château Grand Village - Tuesday 5th May

Bordeaux Buyer at Justerini & Brooks, Tom Jenkins was joined by Omri Ram from Château Lafleur to talk through three of the Guinaudeau’s crus: Grand Village, Acte and Champs Libres.