Posts with the label "clerico"


Barolo Brass Monkeys

Barolo Brass Monkeys

Thursday 23rd February 2012
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

My annual pilgrimage to Piedmont is one of my absolute favourite trips, often occurring in mid March when the snow has been melted away by the increasingly warm sunshine, Spring is very much in the air. 

I always wondered whether it was the time of the year that made me feel that extra level of enthusiasm for the people, region and their wines. The 2012 voyage was to prove a stern test. My journey out there last week, earlier than usual, was accompanied by tough conditions, as the driver of this mini no doubt discovered. There was heaps of snow and minus 13 degree temperatures.

However the wines, predominantly the 2008 Barolos, passed the test with flying colours. The structure in Barolo is very similar to Burgundy, small artisan wine producers making individual vineyard expressions of, largely, one unique Barolo variety, Nebbiolo. The wines are clearly more tannic than Burgundy in their youth and more alcoholic, but otherwise there is often as beguiling and fragrant an aromatic profile, similarly light to mid deep colours but with enormous intensity of flavour and a marked difference in taste depending on the vineyard the grapes are grown in.
Barolo 2007; Castiglione, Serralunga, Monforte, Roero and one more La Morra

Barolo 2007; Castiglione, Serralunga, Monforte, Roero and one more La Morra

Wednesday 27th July 2011
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

This trip is starting to get very expensive for me. I left La Morra not only with an appreciation of a delicious raw spiced beef sausage produced in the town of "Bra" but also with a fairly sizeable personal shopping list of wine. 

Tuesday's and Wednesday morning's tastings have seen this list swell even further.

I wondered whether the sumptuous textures of the wines i had been enjoying so far were purely a La Morra phenomenon but it is clear this a feature of the vintage accross the region.

Scavino are a benchmark; their 2007s are serious and polished wines, the bric del Fiasc wine is a fitting tribute to this top cru, one of the first single cru bottled up separately back in 1978. It was exciting to go to Vietti for the first time, also in Castiglione, their wines are hugely intense and complex. And the last of the Castiglione trio, Azelia, are now the equal of anyone in the region. Marginally longer fermentations and less new oak have, over the last few vintages, seen them jump to the top division of producers. Apart from a great Dolcetto, the best there is, i also fell for the San Rocco.
Would you give someone your last BaRolo?

Would you give someone your last BaRolo?

Friday 10th September 2010
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

Not judging by our customers response to the 2006s on Monday. 

Despite the strike, customers were scrummaging ferociously for a sip of the best La Morra, Serralunga, Monforte and Castiglione Barolos money can buy. This is proving a really classic, structured vintage yet with enough generosity and fruit to allow us an exciting glimpse of even greater things in store. Wines from Gaja, Voerzio(pictured), Altare Scavino and Clerico, to name but a few, must make this tasting of Piedmont's best one of a kind in the UK

Two other highlights were Terre Nere's 2008 Etna Cru wines, arguably their best vintage so far, and a flight of undoubtedly the greatest ever wines to come out of Toro, the 2009 Teso la Monja wines were extraordinary and surely await high critical acclaim.
Barolo 2006: Day two

Barolo 2006: Day two

Tuesday 16th March 2010
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

Super Serralungas !

After last night's belly full of Elio Altare's bread, Sicilian Terre Nere olive oil and wholesome array of vegetables, we were fighting fit for a day's tasting up and down the Barolo region, away from the comfort zone of La Morra and its refined, perfumed wines. We started off in the 'dark' corners of Barolo: At Azelia in Castiglione and Clerico in Monforte, followed by Giacosa in Neive and finally Sandrone in Barolo itself where they have made some extremely polished wines.

Some massive but excellent 2006s overall, Monfortes and Serralungas are not for the faint-hearted but the best examples have such great fruit, flesh and minerality to carry you through the explosive tannins of their young wines.