Posts with the label "domaine du comte liger-belair"


Vintage Report: Burgundy 2017 - Beguiling Burgundian Elegance

Vintage Report: Burgundy 2017 - Beguiling Burgundian Elegance

Thursday 3rd January 2019
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

The 2017 vintage is already being lauded as a great year for whites, but make no mistake this is a superb red vintage, too. When producers like Freddy Mugnier say “I think these were the best, most healthy, grapes I have ever picked” you sit up and take notice. For the Pinots display a beguiling mix of ripe, sensual fruit, delicacy, elegance and freshness. What’s more they offer vivid terroir characteristics - this is a red burgundy lover’s vintage par excellence.

The season started early and resulted in a precocious harvest (taking place between 3rd and 13th September for Pinot Noir). Based on readings taken throughout the calendar year, 2017 was the warmest on record. However the summer was remarkably well-balanced without any extremes in temperature. After a successful flowering, drought was the only potential danger, but rainfall at the end of August put paid to that. Conditions for harvest were perfect with sunny, warm days and cooler nights. There was one notable day of rain within the first two weeks of September otherwise growers could pick when they liked. All of this sounds rather easy, and largely it was, but there were two key factors for making really great, rather than merely “good” Pinots in 2017: Yields and élévage. In the words of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, who has made a stunning range of 2017s “there was time to pick and to get ripe fruit, even with high yields, but if you did not control yields the wines will be a little diluted.” The second factor was to make sure the beautifully ripe, seductive fruit of the vintage was captured and not allowed to dry out, many of the growers we visited in November had already begun racking their wines in preparation for a slightly earlier bottling than usual. Early in the season green harvests were seen by many as crucial elements in controlling yields. By harvest time, grapes were uniformly ripe and very healthy, almost all producers we spoke to made it clear that tables de tries were largely redundant. Despite this fruit ripeness, sugars were in perfect balance, alcohols ranging between a balanced 13 to 13.5%. Such was the maturity of the stalks and grapes that those who practice whole bunch fermentations often included a greater percentage than usual in their fermenters, which seems to have been a successful approach, adding nerve and complexity to the wines. Whether whole-bunch or de-stalked though, the wines commonly display ripe, pliable fruit textures and, despite it not being a particularly high acid vintage, a distinct energy and freshness.

The clouds part as the Comte Liger-Belair comes to London

The clouds part as the Comte Liger-Belair comes to London

Thursday 26th January 2017
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

A day of being immersed in the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair wines is a most effective way of lifting the spirits and January gloom. 

Louis-Michel Comte Liger-Belair came to town recently to present his glorious array of 2015s, a full line-up which included his much-anticipated new cuvee, Clos de Vougeot.  If anyone is capable of raising Clos de Vougeot to more ethereal heights, then it is Louis-Michel. 

The flight started off with a monopole, Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc. This is his best to date, which is saying something after the splendid 2014.  Huge qualitative strides have been made here, ones that transcend any kind of vintage variation.  Then on to the reds, a breath-taking range, among which there were many highlights.  La Romanee was all potential, texture and depth, a wine that combines complexity and power with refinement. This Grand Cru rarely shows off until at least 8-10 years of bottle age, but always carries a sense of greatness. The rest of the wines were impressive for their divine textures and hall-mark Comte Liger-Belair elegance, a perfectly-judged counter-weight to the lushness of the vintage. 

Harvest Report: Domaine du Comte Liger Belair

Harvest Report: Domaine du Comte Liger Belair

Monday 31st October 2016
by Justerini & Brooks

The 2016 harvest has been and gone at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, a great and historic Vosne-Romanée. 

Rejuvenated at the beginning of 2000 by the young Vicomte Liger-Belair, Louis-Michel. Grapes are brought to the winery in small cases that hold just 14 kilos of grapes in order to avoid crushing the bunches. Sorting is carried out by a team of eight on a sorting table, the grapes are entirely de-stemmed and arrive in the vats by means of a conveyor belt without being pumped or crushed.

The Big Burgfest Blog: 2013 shines

The Big Burgfest Blog: 2013 shines

Monday 17th October 2016
by Giles Burke-Gaffney

Over the four days and 244 wines of Red Burgfest 2013 vintage, there were plenty of tannin-stained smiles.  

Judging by all of these bottled samples from the Cote d’Or’s finest crus and producers,  2013 is what it always promised to be from cask:  Overall a very good vintage that, whilst uneven, is capable of hitting the heights. The odd stain on the largely rosy tasting notes was that a few wines appeared to be picked a tad too early.  At best, though, this is a racy, ethereal and pure vintage with good intensity levels, there may not be the overall consistency or concentration of 2010 but it offers more charm and approachability in its youth.