Tasting back to back vintages like 2015 and 2016 is
fascinating. These are both exceptional years, although polar opposite in
style. It is perhaps hard to be as loquacious about the 2016s as we were about
the sumptuous 2015s.
This is in no way a barometer for the vintage – 2016
is certainly as good as 2015, probably better, but the wines are generally less
expressive and generous at this early stage. The 2015s were a sheer
joy to taste - 2016s are more cerebral, introverted, structured,
serious and profound. In most cases, and particularly on the Left Bank, there
is a reserve and classicism that makes one think of ancient vintages with huge
tannic profiles and long-term aging potential. Certainly, the best Chateaux
have flexed their technical know-how and have produced wines with stunning
purity of fruit and precision, but there’s no getting away from the fact that
2016s are real vins de garde.
The extraordinary growing season and Mother Nature have
combined to produce something remarkable. There are many contributing
factors to the success. After the early season deluge the drought and heat of
July and August were welcomed by all. Old vines and soils with
some clay component were best placed to benefit from the
conditions. Critically, during harvest, there were dramatic day/night
temperature differences. This helped the grapes to mature,
but retain acidity, and also kept alcohol levels exceptionally
low, a key feature of 2016s.