Benvenuto Brunello is a wonderful chance to get a broad view
of the new Brunello vintage. Some one hundred and thirty plus producers
exhibit at this annual event, all under one roof.
This year was the turn of
2013 Brunellos and 2012 Riservas. The trip also offered me the
opportunity to break out and explore the rest of Tuscany and its new vintages. Here’s what I learned:
Brunello 2013 – is a highly promising vintage, a potentially
great one, and at its best better than the higher five-star rated 2012
vintage. Montalcino wines rarely struggle for power or density, so these
cooler rainier vintages, when handled correctly, can produce excellent results
– adding a rare finesse and vibrancy to these naturally well-built wines.
It was no wash out, either, good weather dominating the latter part of summer
from end of July onwards. The 2013s show good intensity and great
balance, suggesting excellent ageing potential. Of course not everything will
be great, many producers still pick too late, extract too much or, a new trend,
pick very early. In the latter case, when taken to the extreme, this can yield
rather lean, mean wines with aggressive tannins, tart fruit and hollow
middles. There were more of these in evidence than I can remember.
But back to good examples, though, which are in a majority, they are complete
and want for nothing. More discrete than the blockbuster but well-formed
2010s, but don’t miss them – allow them time and aeration and they become
hugely rewarding. As ethereal as Brunello gets.