The walled garden that supplies Andrew Fairlie’s eponymous two star restaurant at Gleneagles Hotel was the setting for last week’s unveiling of Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay 2000.  

All four vintages of this tiny .68ha jewel in the portfolio were poured, making it a unique chance to see the full Krug output from the 100% Pinot Noir walled vineyard in Ambonnay.

The vineyard itself was purchased by Krug in 1994. The village of Ambonnay has historically always provided the highest quality Pinot Noir in the  Grande Cuvée  blend and so when the opportunity came to purchase arguably the greatest Pinot Noir vineyard in the greatest Pinot Noir village in Champagne, the decision was an obvious one. A sibling for Clos du Mesnil was born, though one far rarer (Clos du Mesnil is almost three times the size). 1995 was the very first vintage, not released until 2007, and since then we have seen the 1996, 1998 and finally today, 2000 released.

Quality is something that Krug know a fair bit about, having made nothing but Prestige Cuvees every single year since 1843. Olivier Krug is at the helm of this great house and is committed to driving quality to ever greater heights.

We had the pleasure of Olivier’s company last Thursday. He kindly hosted a tasting in our cellar and a lunch for a few very lucky clients. We had the good fortune to learn all about the complexity of Krug’s Grand Cuvee, the Rose and the latest vintage, Krug 2000. They are fascinating Champagnes and ones to be enjoyed for the unique, complex styles they portray.

Last week's visit to Krug was an enlightening and inspiring trip.

I am very sensitive to the silver-tongued and often very skillfull marketing speak of many Grand Marque Champagne houses. Together with marketing smoke and mirrors, their skill lies also in blending and producing Champagnes that meet people's expectations with impressive consistency. Krug, however, are supposed to be a little different and, reassuringly, my trip confirmed exactly that. They may be owned by a giant of the luxury goods industry but it has been sensitively kept in family hands, with Olivier Krug at the helm. Talking passionately about the vineyards in the middle of a visit to Krug Clos du Mesnil, Olivier made the close connection of the Krug family to the vines and their terroirs very clear.

A tour of the cellars revealed the incredible parts that can make up Grand Cuvee. First stop in the winery is the barrel room, where all Krug undergoes the primary fermentation. These are old barrels so the aim is not to bring any direct oak flavour or "fat" to the wines, Olivier stressed, they are more a function of Krug's painstaking plot by plot approach to harvest and vinifcation. These smaller vessels also add complexity by allowing a certain limited amount of oxygen contact. This approach is further highlighted by the battery of micro steel tanks in the cuverie. The oldest single wine there being a 16 yo parcel of Grand Cru Bouzy, waiting for its call to the Grand Cuvee stage.