18 again 

This year, the venerable tasters of Southwold-upon-Thames convened to re-sample the ever so slightly controversial 2018s. By my recollection, there was a small transatlantic split of opinion as to the success of the vintage: American critics loved the ripeness and opulence, declaring it an immediate hit; the British press was more circumspect. A vintage of two halves: initially humid, with huge mildew pressure, particularly for the advocates of biodynamic farming, then dry and hot with an unhurried harvest yielding small, concentrated berries. The merits are far easier to evaluate in bottle, and it seems on reflection that neither assessment was entirely accurate. It’s not another vintage of the century, as some might have suggested. 2009, 2010, 2016 and 2019 are clearly a notch above. However, amongst the top crus, it’s a very strong range, probably on a par with 2015 – or maybe marginally better. One feels the “solaire” character with the richness and concentration, yet the wines retain a classical charm and elegance. They are unmistakably Bordeaux. 

It’s over thirty years since a group of pioneering British merchants first met in the small, seaside town of Southwold to assess a young Bordeaux vintage under blind tasting conditions. 

Luminaries such as the late John Avery and Bill Blatch, along with the likes of Clive Coates MW and our very own Hew Blair, were amongst the first tasters. Although the venue has changed, the name remains, as does the spirit and professionalism. The results are eagerly anticipated by Bordeaux Chateaux; this is the ultimate litmus test, affirmation of years of hard work or hard truths.

Now, here comes the caveat: this is perhaps not the most flattering time to taste these wines. In fact, in my experience it is one of the worst… Although barrel samples can be variable, there is an undeniable freshness and purity of fruit. Just after bottling, they are equally flattering, a year and a half after bottling, they are usually less gratifying. 2009 is a notable exception – these have always been gloriously easy to taste. The 2015s attracted comparisons to 2009 from barrel; however, on this showing, they are less flamboyant and more structured. There are very many notable successes, but it is by no means as uniform or as easy to taste as those spectacular 2009s.

Last week, the great and the good of the British wine trade including journalists, merchants and multitude of MWs decamped to our new Southwold-on-Thames venue to dissect the 2014s.

After the demoralising 2013s, there was a palpable sense of anticipation. We have always admired this vintage for its classical style and elegance. As is custom, we start with several flights of St Emilion. The flights seem to get longer each year and usually feature unfamiliar names that leave us pondering, ‘why?’ There was no such bafflement this year. Vignerons appear to have used a lighter touch and coupled with the natural acidity of the vintage, the wines have a real sense of cohesion and energy. Top marks went to Francois Mitjavile’s Tertre Roteboeuf, such an unmistakable wine, there’s really no need to disguise its identity… My preference was Canon, John Kolasa’s last year at the helm – this is as classical and super-refined, and a mighty impressive showing from Troplong Mondot.