Despite the freezing darkness and
the rain lashing against my windscreen, the notoriously wet winter conditions
around Santiago de Compostela could do nothing to dampen my spirits.
It was early,
and I was en route to Bierzo to meet Raul Perez at his winery in Valtuille del
Abajo. There I would hop from my rental car in to Raul’s 4x4 Shogun and together
we would traverse the mountains around Bierzo for the day, variously jumping
out to look at special plots and dive in to cold cellars to taste his latest
wines. I was on my own pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago, but rather than
a waypoint, Bierzo was the destination.
It was hard not to feel a little nervous, for all references
to Raul Perez and his influence on the Spanish wine scene over the past decade
routinely accede to superlatives. To his legions of fans, both consumers and
fellow winemakers, he is a real visionary, cut from maverick cloth, whose
determination has revolutionised the way the world looks at Spanish wine. To
others, he is wild, unpredictable and impossible to get a handle on. Both are
right.