Write off the “weaker” Burgundy vintages at your peril, is
what the beautiful Clos de Tart 2004 spelled out to us at a recent lunch in Burgundy.
Particularly when it comes to the great terroirs. For it is the
cooler, challenging vintages that sorts the wheat from the chaff – no
sun-kissed masking of vineyard character here. This offered all of the
fragrance, opulence and completeness the best Clos de Tart’s can have, framed
by the freshness and delicacy the 2004 vintage. No sign of ladybirds - all
sweet, charming, juicy red fruit. Sheer, uplifting joy. A
timely reminder of Burgundy’s magic and ability to confound preconception. Anyone with this in the cellar; now would be a very good time to drink it.
