The biggest misconception about Frog’s Leap is that they’re
often assumed to be a large-scale commercial operation. The truth is this is a family-owned
winery producing just 45,000 cases per year across five cuvees. Far from
looking to grow relentlessly, they are trimming production while simultaneously
increasing their holdings of estate owned vineyards. John was one of the first
people in the valley to adopt an organic approach in the vineyards and has been
a great advocate for dry farming. And they are also great innovators in the
winery. When it comes to thinking up new ways to produce ever more restrained,
elegant wines, there no is no slavish devotion to oak barrels here…
As such, concrete plays a part in over half the wines.
Entire rooms have been lined in thick concrete to hold their deliciously salty
nutty Chardonnay sur lie for 12 months while much of their Zinfandel is aged in
specially commissioned 1000 lt concrete cubes – a stackable size and shape that
allows their Zinfandel blend to breathe without masking any of its deliciously
fruity components.
And not content with producing some of the region’s most uplifting
wines, they also have a hugely refreshing approach to the concept of growth and
sustainability – both of the land but also for their people.
Another misconception is that because the wines are so
fairly priced, they are only made for early consumption. And yet nothing could
be further from the truth. At a recent lunch at the truly excellent Clarke’s in
Notting Hill, John and Tori poured a selection of older vintages that proved
without a doubt that these wines age with grace. We kicked off with a Zinfandel
1986, only the second Frog’s leap bottling of this variety. John quipped that,
“we had no concept of this wine being drunk in thirty years back then– we
were just messing around!” – and yet approaching 40 years later this
‘simple’ Zinfandel was still in remarkable shape. Flighty and floral yet
unmistakably mature too, it glides across the palate revealing shiitake
mushrooms and umeboshi plum, sour cherry and a touch of balsamic, coffee bean,
mint sage and blood orange. A real shapeshifter, and still great fun to drink.
A 1992 Merlot followed, and it was a beauty. “We
really shouldn’t make Merlot” John explained. “it’s hard to produce,
hard to grow, has such high vigour that it has a tendency to go green, demands
new oak, only grows well in clay soils, of which there are very few pockets in
Rutherford, and above all else, no one wants it!”. Well, we want it, especially when it’s
like this. Complex and grown up, this was a wine of remarkable precision with
deep pure fruit, a touch of herbal freshness and effortlessly silky tannins.
Two estate Cabernet’s finished the line-up – a 2008 and a
1995. The 2008 was the more demure of the two, even a touch reserved at first –
as is the presence of the older bottles made it feel a little shy. With
air though, out came notes wild strawberry, dark berries, balsamic, wildflowers,
stones… delicate and subtle, it grew into something refined and noble, a great
example of poised Rutherford Cabernet, just entering phase two of its
development. The finale came in the form of a 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, and it was
in glorious shape. Fresh and complex
aromas of mint and sage over ripe dark fruit, iron rich sweet soil notes, fine
dark chocolate, soy, balsamic and ripe dark plums – it was mature yet majestic,
structured and sumptuous. A great advert for Rutherford Cabernet and evidence
if it were needed of their ageing ability.