Bordeaux 2009: Super-Size Sauternes

It appears this Sauternes vintage is one of quality and quantity. Foggy mornings, cool nights and plenty of sunshine meant lots of noble rot, great ripeness and concentration and importantly, fresh acidities. De Fargues reported yields of 17hl/ha against an average 11 hl/ha and the quality is golden.

There will always be hot, sugary and rather clumsy Sauternes but I am happy to report there were a large number of highlights during this tasting, wines that lifted, enthused and refreshed a thoroughly red wine-stained J&B team. For the best this is not a heavy honeyed monolith of a vintage, rather one of concentration and brightness. The room's stand out wine was Rieussec, a powerful but balanced wine that will reward decades of cellaring no doubt. Doisy Verdines danced on the palate, all fruit finesse and freshness. Similarly well balanced were De Fargues, De Malle, Doisy Daene and Suduiraut all showing the right mix of concentration, vitality and well defined fruit. Sweet relief ahead of a big day on the right bank tomorrow.