Petrus, Pomerol, 2012
Olivier Berrouet explained that he had to be 'very careful with extractions' in 2011. There was '10-15% more tannin than in 2010'. He went on to say that 2011 is a 'classical, good, balanced, pleasurable vintage' for Petrus. 'We could have made a tannic monster, but that is not the objective; we want to make a balanced, elegant wine'. Despite missing approximately 120 hours of sunshine, not much sorting was necessary at Petrus, unlike many estates, but 2011. Olivier normally takes samples three days before tasting, but the 2011 is quite volatile at this stage, so the sample had been taken only hours before our tasting, so our note should not be seen as a good reflection of the finished wine, just what we tasted at that moment. Wonderful purity on the nose; perfumed, mineral, utterly charming. The palate is awash with sumptuous merlot fruit, sweet plums and cherry liqueur. Beautifully balanced with a fine texture, this is very smart, but lacks a little Petrus wow-factor at this stage.
critic reviews
Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2012 Petrus needs vigorous swirling to uncover notes of plum preserves, kirsch, and blueberry compote with hints of crushed rocks, truffles, licorice, and dried roses. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is laden with spicy black fruit layers and superbly ripe, rounded tannins, giving just enough freshness to lift the long earthy finish. A stunning achievement for this vintage, give it another 5-7 years in the cellar and drink it over the next 25 years+.
The 2012 Petrus has a slightly higher-toned bouquet than its peers: scents of brambly red fruit and briary, liquorice and dried herbs. This gains complexity in the glass, and a second bottle at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year-On, given two hours to open, develops some gorgeous pure plummy fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy, ripe and harmonious with pliant tannins and a little more obvious oak towards the sensual finish, white pepper and thyme lingering on the aftertaste. Wonderful. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.
Ten years is not quite the sweet spot for Petrus, and it will benefit from a few more years softening in the bottle as there are layers of tannins to work through, but this is right up there as the wine of the tasting, it just jumps out of the glass. As ever with Petrus it's the texture that gets you; satin, velvet, silk, lace, all rolled up into one, with succulent black cherry and raspberry fruits given definition and depth by fennel, cocoa bean, graphite, crushed rock, jasmine and black tea. Muscular and yet fresh, it rises up through the palate and leaves you wanting more. 50% new oak, Oliver Berrouet winemaking director.