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Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, 2023
Following on Grivot’s fabulous Reignots is no easy task, but this Clos Vougeot does the job admirably. Very supple and languorous, less electric than Reignots, but with more of a horizontal sweep to the very salty fruit and then sappy and savoury, spherical, clay-driven tannins. The texture is the key here. Clos de Vougeot from a single large parcel on clay soils over what Etienne describes as “Musigny” bedrock. A wine of classic scale, vigour and remarkable freshness.
critic reviews
The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very succinct bouquet. It's one of the cuvées from Grivot with what feels like darker fruit than others. This is beautifully defined, with hints of sea cave/oyster shell and a dash of black pepper that manifests with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and velvety smooth, with pliant tannins, moderate depth and orange rind, blood oranges and a hint of cardamom toward the finish. This is quite a complex Clos de Vougeot that should age with style.