Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, TBA,

Although an oily and viscous product of shriveled grapes, this elixir’s shockingly light green-gold color seems to bear out Hanno Zilliken’s insistence that precious little botrytis was involved in the fruit’s concentration. Candied lemon peel, glazed pineapple and dried apricot, allied to a Chartreuse-like, high-toned concentrate of floral and green herbal essences, deliver an aromatic display so penetrating that it made my nose hairs stand at attention. And high viscosity comes as almost an afterthought given the sense of ethereal levity and the sharply clawed grip with which this wine impinges on one’s soft tissue. Fig, quince jelly, crème de cassis and salted caramel add colorfully to this kaleidoscopically complex performance, and the vibrantly, mouthwateringly sustained finish features pungent counterpoint of lavender and citrus peel even as it coats with creamy persistence. This bottling reflects 100 liters and was offered on the estate’s price list in late 2019. A second TBA that I have not yet tasted – A.P. #1, representing 150 liters – was due for later auctioning.