critic reviews
The 2017 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo starts off shy but develops into a complex nose of truffle, flint and iris notes mixed with a touch of orange peel. It has a very beautiful texture, harmonious and silky smooth, and sweeps across the palate with lots of fine, gravelly-textured tannins at the end. This wine shows an amazingly filigree and delicate touch to the tannins especially given the challenges of the very dry and at times hot 2017 vintage. The finish is very firm but fine, dry and savory. There is a wonderful, seamless feel to this wine with always a fine lace-like quality to the aromas and flavors, thanks to the skilled touch of owner Maria Teresa Mascarello. A delightful example of the 2017 vintage.
Showing a light ruby shine that radiates from the glass, the Bartolo Mascarello 2017 Barolo proves once again that elegance can be achieved, despite the many challenges of an extreme vintage, when worked by the right hands. In this case, the hands are those of Bartolo's daughter, the legendary Maria Teresa Mascarello. This celebrated Barolo boasts a silky sheen and glossy character that transcends bouquet and mouthfeel. Wild cherry, lilac, iron ore and candied orange peel are revealed softly on the bouquet. The wine takes a few minutes to open before all those pretty little details come into view. Acidity is an important component of this graceful Barolo, as it ties together the fruit and heightens that sense of electricity and liveliness. This is a collectors' bottle to keep safely in your cellar.
The 2017 Barolo is gracious, perfumed and very nicely lifted. An effusive, floral bouquet opens first, followed by a rush of red berry fruit. Nervous, a bit wiry at this stage, the 2017 is going to need at least a few years to fully open, but all the elements are in place to allow that to happen. Maria Teresa Mascarello's Barolo is one of the most elegant and restrained wines of the year. It's not an immediately impressive or captivating wine at this stage. The purity of the flavors is just striking, though. Give it a few years to blossom.